On Sunday 23 Jan 2005 1:37 am, loutent scribbled:
For small stuff like that (I've made lots of windows), I use a wooden mitre box with a hand backsaw. Just as (if not more) accurate, and, IME, faster than walking back & forth to the chop saw. Not to speak of safer.
I'm sure that this has been discussed before, but when I did a search, I did not find anything specific.
I made a pair of arched top oak cabinet doors with glass inserts (instead of panels) - about 12x24 each.
Today, I was running some strips to secure the glass from the back of the door. I ran a rabbet and then ripped it off to the proper thickness. So far, no problem.
As I began to miter each corner, the MS would often grab the cut-off and fling it across the room. I added a built-up fence of MDF to give more support, but this only helped a little. I was ducking & weaving...
If I clamped the cut-off part, that seemed to help somewhat.
Is there a better way to miter small (cross-section) pieces
-maybe on a table saw with a crosscut sled? Can you actually do this safely with a MS?
I guess they don't call it "chop-saw" for nothing. I'm beginning to see why the MS might be the most dangerous saw in the shop!
Thanks for any help/suggestions/criticism.
Lou
What kind of blade are you using? For small stock I use essentially a plywood cutting blade. Maybe 80 teeth. Even then I've had the same problem as you, but rarely. HTH. -- Igor
Luigi Zanasi wrote in news:iYFId.71943$W33.2485234 @news20.bellglobal.com:
Luigi's right, as usual. Handsaw is a much calmer process.
When I need to do these repeatably and on wider stock, I use the table saw. The miter saw, even with a backer board, has a nasty tendency to flex the blade, and leave me with inconsistent cuts. On the tablesaw, I can use a blade that's .135" thick, at 10". If there's an error, it's in the sled or, more likely, the operator.
The most dangerous tool in the shop is one being used outside it's range.
Patriarch
loutent wrote in news:220120052037340165% snipped-for-privacy@no.net:
How about a homemade miter box and a sharp dozuki or backsaw?
Thanks all - I think for small stuff, I should use a hand held saw / miter box.
I am such a Normite that I never think that way, but next time I will.
Lou
loutent wrote in news:230120050952502175% snipped-for-privacy@no.net:
Lou(k)! Come to the quiet side! Listen to your heart, Lou(k)!
g,d & r
Patriarch
On Sun, 23 Jan 2005 20:40:36 -0600, the inscrutable Patriarch spake:
HF has a decent hand miter box with Swedish blade for $20. (The one I bought about 5 years ago, same price, was 22".)
Use the Force, Lou(k)!
Ok, ok, I feel the force.
You guys are too much!
LOL
;-)
Lou
Tell ya what, Louk. I kinda missed this thread, but I gather the jist of it is that you figured out that using a steam hammer to forge something out of fine gold wire is scary/dangerous/unpredictable/hard to control.
I thought I'd throw this one out. One of the best gizmos I have ever found for doing precision miters on teensy stuff is a miter box/razor saw set from Xacto. I bought one of these for model railroading purposes originally, but I realized you have to have a six figure income to enjoy model railroading, and kind of drifted away from that hobby. (After watching too many people come in, look at the $1200 price tag on a locomotive, and say "I'll buy three! This is a GREAT price!")
I still have the little miter box, and the little saws. It's surprising how often they're useful for real woodworking on delicate stuff.
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