Maloof finish one more time

Put the first coat of the Maloof oil/poly down the other day on hard maple sanded to 220 (smooth as a baby's butt). Some parts dried a bit rougher than I expected. 0000 steel wool or 400 sandpaper to smooth before the next coat?
Larry
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On 5/13/2013 10:07 PM, Gramp's shop wrote:

sanded to 220 (smooth as a baby's butt). Some parts dried a bit rougher than I expected. 0000 steel wool or 400 sandpaper to smooth before the next coat?

What does the can say?
Some finishes require a scuff between coats, some not.
I suspect that it would not hurt either way. You might simply try a sheet of plain paper wrapped around a small block of wood.
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On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:48:31 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

I suspect what Larry is talking about is, when any wetness is applied to ra w wood, some wood fibers will rise and, when dry, the raised fibers will fe el rough. This may be the roughness he's talking about. If so, sand light ly with 220 grit or you can be a little more firm with 400 grit, to knock d own those raised fibers.... and any dust nibs, also.
Steel wool sometimes leaves sanding/pressure streaks, more so than with san d paper, if you're not careful with your sanding.... again, sometimes... e specially on flat surfaces. For spindles, curves and the like, steel wool would be my choice.
Beyond rough fiber sanding, do as Leon says and see what the application in structions say about sanding between coats.
Sonny
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Any roughness with this product is the direct result of not effectively removing the residue from the previous application. When the directions state to remove all residue, they mean it
It should not happen in the first place, but if not removed, it will buildup with each successive coat and remain gummy.
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On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 2:02:12 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:

removing the residue from the previous application. When the directions state to remove all residue, they mean it As I understand, he hasn't applied a second coat yet. As I understand, he sanded the maple, to 220 grit (smooth as a baby's butt), then applied the first oil coat. When the first coat dried, he discovered there is some roughness on some parts.
I think he needed a comma, in his writing, after the word maple, to understand it the way I understood it, and to understand it the way I think he meant it. "Put the first coat of the Maloof oil/poly down the other day on hard maple sanded to 220 (smooth as a baby's butt)."
Sonny
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Having put on way North of a few thousand coats of this very product, I didn't need any punctuation to know exactly what he meant. ;)
Again, for those with no experience with this product, all coats must be _thoroughly_ wiped off, and left to dry for twenty four hours, before applying the next coat.
It takes a good deal more _rubbing_ than most would think to get the desired result, much, much more than simply wiping off the residue from each coat as you would a gel stain, or other wipe on finishes.
Worth the effort? You decide:
http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y05J8C45NDs/TtEiT6CTE-I/AAAAAAAAI5w/bLQRTPOhCyw/s2048/HC23.JPG
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On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 5:14:18 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:

Hey, Karl ...
My key takeaway was "rub" versus "wipe." Coat one was the latter and coat two was after receiving your advice. Good result on coat two. BTW, a comm a after "maple" in my original post would have changed the meaning to instr uct the reader that I had sanded to 220 after applying the finish. Not the case.
Thanks, again, for the good tip. And, that chest is beautiful!
Larry
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On Monday, May 13, 2013 10:07:16 PM UTC-5, Gramp's shop wrote:

sanded to 220 (smooth as a baby's butt). Some parts dried a bit rougher than I expected. 0000 steel wool or 400 sandpaper to smooth before the next coat?

Thanks, guys. An hour with my friendly 0000 and we were back to baby's butt smooth. Put on the second coat ... and will know tomorrow if I was more successful in removing the excess.
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