I need some white mahogany plywood for the back of a cabinet I'm building
out of white mahogany. Well, you can't buy WM plywood. So, what if I resaw
and plane some stock down to 1/8", then glue it on to a 1/8" luaun plywood?
Will that work? Any problems with separation? How should I go about
glueing it down on that thin stock? Can't clamp it very easily.
I've heard of this being done, but I've never attempted it, until now. My
back needs to be 44 inches long, so gluing up a solid panel of thin stock
would be difficult.
Careful with only contact cement. It will creep over time. If you use
it, use it on the center of the panel and use white or yellow glue for
the perimeter. The white/yellow glue will keep the veneer in place.
For glue, use gravity. <g> When I glued two sheets of particle board
together for a workbench top I laid them on the floor and put books, bricks,
barbell weights and other heavy stuff on them. Still using it 4 +/- years
It is actually "primavera", a tropical hardwood with no color, sort of like
birch. Has the same grain and other characteristics of genuine/"red"
mahogany, but is slightly harder. You can stain it any color you want,
including traditional "red" mahogany. I like it because it is easy to work
with like mahogany, but I'm not limited to the red color characteristics of
genuine mahogany. I buy this stuff by the bundle (400-600BF) for $2 BF.
I'd look for ready-cut veneer of a suitable face timber, rather than
trying to make my own,
Making plywood from scratch is hard, but surface veneering ready-made
ply (or MDF) is common practice and some pretty easy veneering. Do
both sides equally to "balance" it, or you may get warping problems.
Don't use contact cement. I'ts just about usable for small pieces
(although I wouldn't) but for a large piece you'll never get it on
straight before it sticks firmly into place. Use hot hide glue
instead, the traditional and still the best. The "stick" behaviour as
it goes on hot and chills is about the best behaviour I've yet found
for veneering. I'd suggest a veneer hammer, rather than a roller, but
that's a personal thing.
There, it's said. Each side needs help.
You can use a fiber product for the substrate versus plywood, make for an
easier job, and make contact cement a better choice. If you do ply, remember
to cross the grain, and hide glue is really a better bet than contact cement
I have "made" ply by gluing thinner sheets together with wood glue,
then used cans of paint, water-filled gallon jugs, sand bags, weights,
and anything else to weigh them until the glue dried (at least 2-3
days). A vacuum clamp would probably be easier. Another approach is
to use contact cement and a J-roller--no clamping with this method.
On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 21:50:32 -0500, "bob"
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
If you're going to use contact, and have not worked with it before,
practice several times until you get it right 3 X in a row, on
something that does not matter, but is a large area as you are
I did not follow that rule and now have a (perhaps unfair) hatred of
contact. My father swears by it. I swear at it.
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