In my ken, hide glue is the only glue up to this point suitable for
woodworking that will glue/adhere to itself. For a joint to be totally
repairable at some point, as all glue joints will at some point fail, it
helps to be able to dismantle the piece and hide glue is the best bet so
far up to this century.
Epoxy is probably the best bet for longevity, but it is expensive, and
forget about getting anything glued with epoxy apart; and urea
formaldehyde glue may be the second best choice because it is much
cheaper than epoxy, easier to use and because when it does fail, you can
"repair" it, once, with epoxy, for another hundred years. :)
That said, I'm still using PVA's on most things, and urea formaldehyde
glue (Weldwood, Urac 185 (?), etc) for long open times.
"Expensive" is a relative term.
Last time I bought a gallon of TB-II it was about $20.
I don't pay even close to $20/gal for epoxy, but then I buy it in 500
lb (55 gal) drums.
Retail, a gallon of epoxy is probably about $60 these days.
Somehow, I think the cost of the adhesives used in a project gets lost
when compared to the cost of any of the following:
2) Finishing materials
BTW, slow hardener and laminating epoxy resin will give at least 30
minute open time @ 75F which is a whole lot more than TB-II.
On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 12:27:09 -0500, the infamous Swingman
I wish I still had that link I saw eons ago. It had a video of all the
joint types (dowel, loose tenon, biscuit, integral m&t, lap, miter,
etc.) being tested with strength charts afterward.
Here's one newer destructive test site:
http://www.dowelmax.com/jointstrength.html (totally bogus, IMHO)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhLfb7m9Fug Much more scientific. I
wish they had shown the data for pinned (but not glued) m&t joints.
As usual, a lot of variation comes from loose fit, so remember to fit
your tenons (loose or integral) snugly for the best durability.
We're born hungry, wet, 'n naked, and it gets worse from there.
There are very few down sides... much faster and much
less setup with a proper jig.
The only thing is to watch your reference side. That
can be a slight problem until you screw up a few pieces.
There are MANY jigs out there to do this with...
John B wrote:
Advise, LOL. IMHO the more mortise and tennon joints you use the stronger
the project joints will be. The easier it is to create loose mortise and
tennon joints the more you will use them.
Buy a Domino NOW!
Well, considering how much you've used yours lately, you must be getting
really sick and tired of it. So, I'll help you out and offer you $100 for
yours including the vacuum. Hell, I'll even pay the shipping to me up here
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.