Kitchen Cabinets - Toe Kick or No Toe Kick

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thanks, I'll stick with the full extension plus 1" drawer slides.
dave
SwampBug wrote:

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Like I said. . .save tradition! <g>
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Of course, if you use words like "deep" overhang. One could, if you want to make it look like furniture, lower the drawers a bit in the carcass and use a sort of "crown molding from the top to the drawer opening. We ARE talking doing something different here, why limit it during the idea phase?
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Yahhhhhbut, in order to compensate, you'd need to over hang the counter anywhere from 3 1/4" to 4" and this ends up looking like somebody made the counters too deep (a mistake) or the cabinets too shallow (another mistake). In other words, one of those scenes from Weekend Warriors that always leaves me cringing.
UA100
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It is like Mr.Plamann says, "it is all a matter of how bad you want to be good!"
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If it looks nice but you don't use it or hate to use it what good is a nice looking "What ever"? With the design of your new cabinets, start with some kind of toe kick or recess area for your feet. Otherwise you will stand back in a year and wonder how you could have put so little consideration in to the toe kick.

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I,m for the toe-kick.....hate stubbing my toes if i,m not wearing shoes......

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"Glen Duff" wrote in message

When designing our latest kitchen, we gave the 'no toe kick look' due consideration because SWMBO brought it up, but after weighing all the factors, we went with the traditional toe kick space.
Obviously a solid base board, or any type of furniture trim on a base cabinet, will push you even back further from the cabinets without some type of cutout or cutout pattern.
I did see some nice looking units in the "French Provincial" style that had the appearance of no toe kick space, said toe kick space hidden behind the cutout pattern of a base board, with room for your toes.
The biggest consideration against 'no toe kick' for us was (and we saw plenty of evidence of this in use) that the base boards generally get banged/smudged up over time, with the curved area, or projections, closed to the floor getting the majority of the grief from shoes, accidental kicks, mops and vacuums.
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Glen,
If you spend any time at all in the kitchen, then you need a toe kick. Specifically at the sink, and where there are upper cabinets. In other areas, a toe kick may not be necessary. Your back will quickly tell you how necessary a toe kick is.
I'd like to do without one in my new kitchen as well, but it's a necessity. What I am going to do is build the cabinets as modules, and build the toe kick as part of a platform that the cabinet boxes will sit on. That way, you can build the platform as essentially a frame made of 2x4 stock, shim that to square and level instead of each individual cabinet, and then attach the cabinets to the base separately. You could even attach the facing for the toe kick before you put the cabinets on, which makes it easier. The other nice thing about that method is that you don't have to stick to stock sizes of cabinets - you can build something to fit your space.
Jon E
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In my cabinet class, toe kicks are the standard. Even if it wasn't.....I'd vote for them.

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The last few sets of cabinets I've built have had baking sheet drawers in place of the toe kicks. That way, you get the convenience of the toe kick along with the extra storage space of the drawers.
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I should mention that these are recessed so that they also serve as a toe kick.

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