just got very lucky

Last day of work today. left early , went down to the shop, fired up the compressor and it didn't shut at the right pressure. Switch is still giving me a problem. So I shut it, and go to check it.
I hear leaking in 2 spots.. My Home Depot (HUSKY) 3/8 to 1/4 adapter has blown... it just came slightly apart. I don't even bother with the other leak... I notice that it's wobbling... Thought the air filter was the culprit, thought it lost the threads, being an HF unit. Not the case. I throw the lever valves open and discharge it.
Boy I did not know how lucky I was until it was empty.
See the pics in alt binaries... had that blown with 100psi I am sure it would have done some damage to the stuff across from it, paint cans and wood storage.
--
Jeff

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"woodchucker" wrote:

----------------------------------------------------- Time to redo your plumbing.
You had an accident waiting to happen and it did.
You had placed an excessive bending load on a brass fitting and it failed.
Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, it's a more common error than you might think.
Lew
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On 12/31/2013 2:23 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Might be time to move the filter and manifold to the wall and run flex line to it.
--
Jeff

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"woodchucker" wrote:

For a few $ worth of pipe fittings, you can create a well engineered manifold.
Get some 3/4 pipe nipples, 6''-8" long.
Assemble a manifold using these nipples and some 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" (side) pipe tees.
At each tee, assemble a pair if 1/2" street ells in a 180 degree turn around.
The idea is to get the air to reverse direction so any water vapor drops out.
You now have a 1/2" female pipe fitting facing down that you can equip with a hose coupling so that a hose will hang down when coupled together.
Cap one end with a 3/4" cap and the other with a petcock to drain any water in the pipe manifold and a 3/4 x 3/4 x 3/4 tee on the entry end for the 3/4 hose from the regulator.
Incline the 3/4" pipe about 1'4"/ft and you are good to go.
Install regulator at tank and connect regulator to manifold with a 3/4" hose and you are good to go.
The manifold can be expanded at any time with more pipe fittings.
Have fun.
Lew
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I use a piece of 1 1/2" steel pipe in a vertical position, and put the air into a t at the bottom of the pipe. Petcock to drain water. At the top of said 5 foot pip, the air comes out, cool and de-moistened.
My idea is to get the air to move slowly, and plenty-O-surface area to cool. Slow means water will not get pushed upwards with the air flow. Cool means water does not condense in the lines as the air does not cool later downstream. I have a couple manifolds with disconnects in differing numbers so I can use them anywhere in the shop as needs arise.
Jim in NC
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On 1/2/2014 11:50 PM, Morgans wrote:

Yea, that's not a bad idea. I have similar in each of the drops, the t's allow air to t off, but the moisture drops to the bottom of the pipe where a ball valve allows me to relieve the line of moisture.
But starting out that way seems like a good idea too, as all the moisture is there to begin with.
--
Jeff

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Thanks for the pic and post. Tractor Supply had those 3-way doo-dads on cheap a while back and I grabbed one. By the time I had $50 of adapters and fittings in hand to get it to fit, I decided that I didn't need it as much. I would have probably done it like you did.
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