There are days when my right knee feels like it has razor blade
fragments in it.
The other morning, I couldn't lower my right arm after I combed my
hair...not without cringeworthy/tear-inducing bolts of blue neon pain.
Then a bit of a crunch and all is well for weeks and weeks. It all
depends on how I slept on it.
I blame the years of gruelling dirt-bike riding...and the fact that
the shoulder and knee are both on the same side, makes me think it
could have been that same tree that totalled my Husqvarna.
I'm getting tired of the noises, only I can hear, when I turn my head.
Coming from the base of my neck, it seems to resonate through the bones,
one of these days when I am driving and check over my right shoulder it
may get interesting.....
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
I'll agree with your assessment that the Kerfmaker is unnecessary, The joint
can be cut with a hand held circular saw with no real need for a TS which
will cost much more. I agree with your assessment that the Kerfmaker is
exorbitantly priced, all of Bridge City Tools are, yet I own several of
If you actually cut half lap joints on a regular basis or avoid them because
they can be a lot of trouble to reproduce accurately over and over than, I
don't agree that the tool is overrated, it does exactly what it is designed
to do with VERY little effort and chance of error. If would be overrated if
it showed even a hint of not being able to do what it was designed to do,
perfectly. There is no flaw in the design and if the joint does not come
out correctly it is not the fault of the Kerfmaker.
Unless you have actually used one your assumption that it is overrated is
not valid. If you have used one and still feel that it is over rated you
really don't have the skill to do accurate work any way.
Now that is not to say that you are not a skilled woodworker, it is only to
indicate that this tool makes as much sense and works as dependably as an
electric on/off switch on a corded tool. You can stop and start an electric
power tool by simply plugging it in and unplugging the power cord but life
is soooo much easier if you don't have to do that every time you want to use
I concede your point about the tool not being overrated. I am sure it does
work very well for its intended purpose and I do like the design and
implementation. I still would call it unnecessary, as it takes less than
a minute to cut a piece of stock that will do precisely the same thing.
And that method doesn't anything to be recalibrated if you change blades.
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
I have the "tool" and have used it more times in the last year than I
thought I would ever use it. In particular I needed to create muntons for
my tower bed project earlier this year. Basically I inserted fake window
frames in 8 openings in my head board and foot boards. The pieces were
3/32" thick and all joints were lap joints. Perfect fit for all 96 joints.
We expect no less from you - perfect fits every time. BTW, with your
new 3 horse-drawn carriage shop we're going to expect better than
Better would be good.... but more breathing room for sure. LOL
: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ¾xGi9HbLSM
: Neat demonstration of the need for woodworking accuracy.
How much is that piece of wood going to contract and expand across its width
with humidity (and temperature) changes?
I don't have Hoadley's book, but I vaguely recall when I built a bookcase with
and sycamore, looking up the rates of expansion (to make sure they matched), and
was something like 1/8 or 1/4" across the depth of the bookcase. That gives
something like .006"
per inch, a bigger gap than any of the loose joints the BCTW video shows.
-- Andy Barss
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