Re: accuracy of SMSs?

I think you're too colorful a character to be called plain Dave!

You mentioned a 12" blade? Chris was looking at 10" SCMSs. IIRC, you have a Unisaw, with a 10" blade. So it's a little unfair to compare the two, as a larger blade, particularly a thin kerf, will tend to move more than a smaller blade.

Yes, rapid starting a heavier blade puts more wear and tear on the motor and bearings, hence a lower mtbf.

Greg

I'd as soon have the better accuracy. Screw the failure rate, within reason. IMO, the saws should be designed to use full-thickness blades, with makers beefing up bearings and motors to withstand the heavier loading--note of curiosity: has anyone weighed a thin kerf 12" and a regular kerf 12" of the same brand and type on a reasonably good scale? I'd do it later today, but I don't have a reasonably good scale...hell, even my bathroom scale is 9 pounds high (I hope).

Charlie Self

"Verbosity leads to unclear, inarticulate things." Dan Quayle, 11/30/88

I'd be interested to see that too Charlie, although it is not the full difference. Wider teeth also demand greater torque to make the same cut, so there is a penalty on start and during the cut itself. That said, I admit to never liking the thin kerf blades and prefer full thickness blades myself. Besides, 1/8" is easier for me to add up than 3/32" when calculating waste cuts ;-)

Originally the thin kerf blades were the same thickness as the full kerf, has this changed recently, anyone?

Greg

Dave,

You just make this tooooooooooo easy... It's because you're tall!

Rich

The kicker, though, with crosscuts is that you're not IN the cut long enough for there to be much difference in overall power requirements. You ARE in the cut long enough for excess blade flex to screw accuracy.

Plates also tend to be thinner in 10". Offhand, I don't recall on the 12".

Charlie Self

"Verbosity leads to unclear, inarticulate things." Dan Quayle, 11/30/88

I roughly checked the deflections on multiple saws and noted the same problem. Check out the Hitachis at Lowe's--which I found to have the least deflection of the bunch.

Warren

no, it's gotta be because I paid too much!

dave

Rich wrote:

I bought the Hitachi 10" slider for my business. I'm a handyman, and I end up doing a lot of trimwork on houses. (Rehanging doors, replacing rotted exterior trim, remodels, etc.)

Straight out of the box, the Hitachi slider is by far the most accurate piece of machinery I've ever owned. I've talked to a number of trim carpenters who agree. And the majority of sliders that I see on construction job sites are Hitachi 10" (I think that the model is the C10FSB, but the newer version has a laser, and is a different model)

Without any adjustments, I took my new saw to a customer's house, and did three rooms of trim, including crown and chair rail. The saw did a perfect job.

If you think of the motions that you'll be making while you're using a sliding miter saw, you'll realize that 'sideways' is sort of naturally precluded. You're hand will be making a sweeping (down and away) motion, with the sliders guiding it. Believe me, I've made that motion a million times.

Get the Hitachi. Be proud that you have the same tool that the true pros use. And get those accurate cuts that many only dream about.

Dave,

If you don't get Irritated, how am I suppossed to get my jollies. Now get with the program!

Rich

P.S. Luv Ya

Dave,

Good to see you making some sense and getting your priorities straight. Who's your daddy now Mariah?

Your new best friend, Rich