Ive done it now


Simple question white oak tabletop now have 3 coats of danish oil on can I? 1. put oil based varnish on top of this 2. put quick drying varnish on this (anbody every tried this?) Iv'e been told you can. Regards Connor
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I do it all the time. But...always do a test on a piece of scrap. Don't believe everything you read.
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Yes you can.
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Sorry people can I use quick drying AND oil based or just oil based thanks Connor
OH no not another tool purchase . . . yes this today http://www.kregtool.com/products/pht/product.php?PRODUCT_ID  Has anyone any tips and can you make your own plugs?
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Connor Aston wrote:

Wait a few days for the danish oil to be good and dry.
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Mon, Jan 9, 2006, 11:03pm (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@connoraston.com (ConnorAston) stumbled in and mumbled: <snip> Iv'e been told you can. Read the sig block. Try it.
JOAT You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you "know"? - Granny Weatherwax
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Connor Aston wrote:

Dewaxed shellac, commercially sold in paint stores as Zinnser Seal Coat, will work as a fine barrier between almost anything. I also adds a slight warm amber tone to white oak that many folks really like. Comprehensive usage and compatibility instructions are on the can.
Anytime you're not sure, do a sample board on scrap. No scrap? Test on the bottom.
When in doubt, use a barrier coat.
The bottom line is yes, an oil varnish should work fine over danish oil, with the following cautions:
- Pigment removal: If the oil has a pigment in it (solids), the varnish can break it free, allowing your brush or rag to redistribute the pigment. This will show up in the final finish as brush marks or light spots. Seal Coat will prevent this.
- If the oil is still oozing from the pores, keep wiping and wait until it stops.
Have fun, Barry
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B a r r y wrote:

Eh, in red oak that takes awhile. As I found. White oak is better, but still porous.
er
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