We have an oak table in our kitchen which we use for meals on a daily basis.
We use placemats for our plates. However, my child placed a really hot
muffin on the wood and it left this circle on the table that can be seen
from certain angles. The table has a beautiful grain and I don't want to
cover it with a table cloth. However, I would also like to protect it from
future accidents. What can I apply to make clean ups easy? Currently, I
just wipe off the table with a slightly damp cloth and then apply Pledge
every other day. I don't see this as any protection to the table
really...Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Since you are using the table heavily you probably are not interested
in a "hand rubbed finish " that will require upkeep. I would go with
a water based poly. It's easy to apply , touch up and redo if you
need to. You can go with a high gloss to help bring out the wood's
Unfortunately, it would seem that you have applied gallons of Pledge
to the table already.
Because of that, tt might well be very tricky to apply a real wood
finish over it without making things look much worse (if the finish
penetrated in some places but not others.)
Also, there is the possibility that the mark from the hot muffin might
be something called "bloom." That is just water vapor that becomes
trapped within the finish of wood.
If it is bloom, you might find that it vanishes over a week or so.
P.S. Stop the Pledge. <g>
All the best,
The table most likely has a lacquer finish on it now (which I think is prone
to the damage described). Why would another coat of lacquer have to
"penetrate"? Penetrate into what?
Is there a way to remove the built up silicone oil due to the pledge use on
the surface of the finish? Maybe mineral spirits? I'm not sure.
Do a google search on "Padding Lacquer" to repair the damage once the
silicone oil has been removed.
Flexner's book has some steps for getting rid of silicone on wood. Washing
with tri-sodium phosphate and water, sealing it in with #1 shellac, dusting
with very light coats of nitrocellulose lacquer, or adding silicone oil to
the new finish to even out the surface tension, are some of the methods.
Never tried it, but it sounds as if it is a trial and error, combination of
the above, operation.
Removing silicone contamination is much easier to say than accomplish.
Even stripping will not necessarily remove it. This is one of the things
that make overcoating an existing finish a real gamble.
Having said that, a really good washing is the place to start. Lots of
fresh rags or cleaning cloths is a must so you don't end up simply spreading
the silicone around. Sealing with shellac can work but only if it is
sprayed. Brushing it on only serves to stir the contamination to the top of
the seal coat. Adding "fisheye" remover to the top coat can also help but
too much serves to make the coat soft and it can also act as a retarder.
One or all of these things may have to be used. You can always see if
it works by wiping on some mineral spirits or alcohol. If it suddenly pulls
back leaving "dry spots" you still have contamination.
To reply directly, remove both NGs.
You are correct but like any polymer, there are many different types of
silicone. The types in fisheye remover work best for its task. They are
also in a carrier that is suited to being added to lacquer, varnish, etc.
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