The court stenographer's read-back confirms that I used the word "some", rather than "lots and lots". The official record also has you making a curious assertion about tangential gravity. ;)
of the screw that acts as a drill bit, yes, they have that feature.
You certainly wouldn't say that if you used the SS Philips head screws I used on the deck in VT. The damned things stripped if you looked crosseyed and the only way to get them out was vice grips. A RPITA. I always go for Torx for large screws, now. Sheetrock screws, not so much. ;-)
I consider the ability to not strip out the head a feature. If the shank is breaking then either the screw is garbage or the material is too dense and not properly prepared, as in pilot holes, or the driver is over powered and not clutched.
I recently replaced the batteries in a Garmin Nuvi GPS. The battery came with a tool kit with 3 drivers, small drivers normally used in eyeglass or watch repair. REALLY small. One was the smallest torx driver I've ever seen. Good thing, because the tiny ass screw was so damn tight it took all my strength to break it loose, and I'm not a little guy. I don't think any other head type would have survived the stress being that small.
Logical inference. The weight of a drill will only act to keep the bit in the screw head if it is pointed within a small angle of straight down, at least in my neighborhood. :)
I said "doesn't need much" IIRC. After starting a square head screw into the wood (3/4" or so), I can take my hand off the driver and it will stand there like it was glued on. If yours won't do that, you are buying either the wrong screws, the wrong bits, or both, as I said before. I have to physically wiggle the driver to get the bit out of the driven screw each time. This is with deck screws (galv or epoxy coated) mostly, but I seem to recall it being true with all the black oxide McFeely micro pocket and washer-head screws, too.
-- Energy and persistence alter all things. --Benjamin Franklin
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