Is there a bad Unisaw?

I've been looking for a Uni for awhile now and one has popped up that sounds really good. I'm going to look at it Saturday. It sounds like its a great saw, except the price is quite a bit lower than what I was expecting to hear. The guy wants 375 and according to a mutual friend who has seen it (but doesn't really know saws) it doesn't look trashed. Motor and bearingds supposedly work fine. It sounds like its an older model which is actually what I wanted. I thought I knew a little about Uni's, but am I missing something? Is there a model year or something I should avoid?
PS- No, you can't see it before me for informative purposes!!
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On 08 Jan 2004 02:39:19 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (GBsCards) wrote:

You mean like AMF Harleys?
Two things that I know of that will drive the price down are 3 phase motors and the saw not actually being a Unisaw.
Delta made (makes?) a tilting arbor cabinet saw that Keith calls a "Unisaw Lite" which I understand is basically a contractor saw's guts in a cabinet. It was (is?) considerably less beefy and sold (sells?) for considerably less than a true Unisaw.
The aforementioned Keith will be able to answer the Harley/AMF question in the context of Unisaws or direct you to a place that can. LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
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I would answer your question by saying Delta has never built a bad Unisaw. I am sure there are some "bad Unisaws" out there now.
Marv

sounds
great
hear.
doesn't
work
I
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Marv wrote:

Hey Marv, I think maybe it's time to add more words and English to the above onna 'count of it doesn't make sense as written.
UA100
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GBsCards wrote:

As an aside, I have seen Unisaws sell for in the two hunnert and less range. They've usually needed a new fence ($300) and at times a new motor ($300) and in the end they end up costing about what you'd expect to pay for a good used one. In fact, after spending the money, they are a good used one.

Even if they don't, at that price you can always tell your Mom that you are buying on the installment plan.

Typically anything built by Rockwell International is considered dicey. You'll know these because they will have the RI Peace Sign logo and the plinth (the base/part that sits on the ground) will be sheet metal. These will have been made anywhere between 1974ish and 1984. After 1984 you're into the Penthair era and on your own. I try and not pay attention to the newer machines.
Anyway, it's way too early for me to be telling you everything I know so ping me on the back channel and I'll point you to a resource or three that should get you up to snuff in a short period of time.

But you will be sending a picture when you get it, OK?
UA100
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Hey UA, on another note, how do the older (50's model delta uni's)1 horse motors stack up against the new 3 horse models? SH
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Slowhand wrote:

The only other Unisaws I've ever run are the machines at work and they are horse anna half three phase so I really can't answer this.
Oh! I do know one plus on the new machines. The blow molded motor covers can be used to divert rain water from your down spout. Can't do that with my cast iron goose egg cover.
UA100
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I suspect that what they are referring to is a 2 hp motor version that was on a Unisaw. If trunnions and such are same as 3 hp, I would buy it QUICKLY and pick up a 3 hp motor when I could.
wrote:

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Actually no. I have never ran a newer unisaw with the 3 horse motor. I'm just curious if there is much power difference. SH
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On Fri, 09 Jan 2004 09:13:50 -0800, Slowhand wrote:

There is not quite as much difference as one would think. The older motors (I believe rated at 1 1/2 horse) are 1725 RPM motors, the newer ones are 3450. I am not sure how the blade speed is affected but I know in our school shop (ages ago) we ripped all the 2x12's from the football field bleachers down to 2x4's for projects and did not have any problem with the old unisaw. It sure did not bog down much but would occasionally kick a breaker off (no magnetic start). I currently have an older unisaw that I put a 3 horse motor on. It is not too hard if you are good with a welder to fabricate a mount that changes the unisaw pin mount to a universal plate mount. It makes it easier and cheaper to find motors. I also had to change the pulley to accomodate the change in motor RPM.
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Lawrence A. Ramsey wrote:

Nope. He was referring to the one horse. If memory serves me the two horse was only available for a short period of time. I'm thinking in the middle/late 60's. I'd have to dig to find out which I won't.

What's wrong with leaving well enough alone? My 3/4 horse is suiting me just fine. But then again, it's repulsion/induction. :-)
sigh...
UA100
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At least you have the cover and the ability <g> SH - don't have the goose egg.
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You can *collect* water with a spare $10 goose-egg cover.
Not that I've done this, of course.
Jon E
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Jon Endres wrote:

Now this sounds interesting. Is there a particular vintage of water I should be looking for? Is the water from one region more highly sought after than another region? I have some water and I was wondering what it was worth? I can supply pictures of the water upon request.
Thanks in advance.
UA100
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Please provide them if you would - I would be interested in puchashing but would need specific information as to location and details of capture as this helps determine value. Please don't forget shipping logistics.
Don

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Water that is not collected from yellow snow is preferred.
J
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On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 02:39:19 +0000, GBsCards wrote:

I bet there are many more bad woodworkers than Unisaws. I have a Unisaw. It is sweet.
If you can pick one up at a fair price, go for it. If it needs some tweaking or minor repair, you will still end up with a very good saw.
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make sure it doesnt have a 3 phase motor, unless of course thats what you want.
dickm
On 08 Jan 2004 02:39:19 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (GBsCards) wrote:

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