installing cedar shingles.

Can I install cedar shingles directly on the 7/16" OSB plywood sheathing on the backyard shed I built. Rafters are 16 .o.c. Or do I have to strap with 1 x 3" and attach the shingles to the strapping? Dave
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
You can install directly to the osb. Make sure the fasteners you use penetrate the shake and all the way through the osb, just as roofing nails would. This will keep the fastener from working it's way out. --dave

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The 1x slats,w appropriate gaps but w/o solid sheathing, are commonally used in wet climates like the Pacific northwest of the US. This lets air circulate better in and around wood shakes & shinges to promote quicker drying for longer life. Keeping them damp promotes mildew growth. Here in the US southwest, wood shakes (we don't see many wood shingles) are applied directly over sheathing like your OSB since moisture is not a problem.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks. I bought the 1 x3 and was going to strap it. Then I read where it's best to sheath about 2' around the perimeter of the roof surface and strap inside that. One said use tarpaper and another said don't use tarpaper because it can trap moisture on the underside. In the end, I sheathed the whole thing. The main determinant for me is that it's getting cold. I finished the sheathing today, but it's only about 38 degrees. If I can just get the shingling done before the snow flies I'll be happy. Another question - the building supply sold me 1 1/2" galvanized nails for the shingling, but I'd like to avoid all that hammer work. Is there a type of air-powered nailer and fastener I can use. I'd rent an ashphalt shingle nailer, but everything I've read says shingles (shakes) are easily split, and I think an ordinary asphalt-type shingle nail might split the shake.
Dave

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
| >> Can I install cedar shingles directly on the 7/16" OSB plywood sheathing | >> on | > | > | |
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks PDQ ref the brad nailer. If I understand it my normal 1 1/4 " brads ( I think 16 ga but maybe they're 18) is what you're suggesting? Brads look like they're made of aluminum, so they wouldn't rust. I'm not too worried about condensation or mould. This is just a backyard shed I've built and it won't have any plumbing (but I am starting to think about insulation and maybe an electric baseboard heater. One of my aims is to move my table saw and jointer activity out of the basement (for dust reasons). Another was to move out all the lawn and garden stuff that makes parking the cars in the garage a challenge. Now I'm starting to think 10 x 14 maybe should have been bigger. Anyhow, I'll take up your suggestion of the brad nailer and fire a few test shots. I wasn't sure this group was appropriate for construction-type questions, but I couldn't find any others so I appreciate the pointers. Thanks
| Thanks. I bought the 1 x3 and was going to strap it. Then I read where | it's best to sheath about 2' around the perimeter of the roof surface and | strap inside that. One said use tarpaper and another said don't use | tarpaper because it can trap moisture on the underside. In the end, I | sheathed the whole thing. The main determinant for me is that it's getting | cold. I finished the sheathing today, but it's only about 38 degrees. If I | can just get the shingling done before the snow flies I'll be happy. | Another question - the building supply sold me 1 1/2" galvanized nails for | the shingling, but I'd like to avoid all that hammer work. Is there a type | of air-powered nailer and fastener I can use. I'd rent an ashphalt shingle | nailer, but everything I've read says shingles (shakes) are easily split, | and I think an ordinary asphalt-type shingle nail might split the shake. | | Dave | Strapping is a good thing as it helps keep the shingles dry.
An air nailer can do the job if you get the air pressure low enough. I mannaged to put 1 1/4 inch brads into 1/4 inch plywood without going past the finish layer by setting the gun pressure to 50 psi instead of my usual 90 psi. At 90 the brads went clear through to the substrata. Just waste a few nails in a test shingle.
Shingle nails are usually blunt ended so they punch through the shingle rather than part it. The latter action can cause a shingle to split.
--

PDQ
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Sorry to mis-advise. I did not mean for you to use a brad nailer. It was only for an example of what can be done.
For your shingles, use a proper nail gun and shingle nails. P-C has them in coils. In any event, be sure to turn down the air pressure at the gun as 90 psi will blow right through the shingles.
I can appreciate your saw removal. I got mine into the basement in pieces. Now I hesitate to take them apart to get them out.
To rip an 8 foot board you need 8 feet before and after the saw. To cross-cut you need the same on the sides. Makes for 16X16 and 20X20 would be best. No matter how big the shed, the table saw goes in the middle and all the other stuff goes along the walls.
If you put the saw on wheels, you can manage in a 10X14 as long as you get the saw outside before firing it up and use the shed as an outfeed location for ripping.
--
PDQ --
| | >> Can I install cedar shingles directly on the 7/16" OSB plywood | sheathing | | >> on | | > | | > | | | | | |
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The old pro's tell you that you should hand nail wood shingles and shakes so as to get just the right set: not enough to dent the shingle, but enough to just hold the shingle firm. I think that a roofing nail is not the answer since they are too large in diameter. I would think a regular nail, about 6d and galvanized would do fine. That is what was used for my 20 year-old shakes that I removed before re-shaking. In spite of that, around here (Phoenix) and in Seattle the roofers use staples applied with an air powered stapler to install shakes. Not sure what they use for wood shingles.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
someone wrote: >In spite of that, around here

We use the same set-up, shorter shanked staples with a 1/2 inch crown. On walls, mansards and the like, stainless fasteners are preferred. You'll not get dark oxide stains that way. There's a nifty mesh underlayment made to install under cedar, allowing ventilation when they're installed over ply. Tom Work at your leisure!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I live on the north oregon coast and use tar paper. Have for 20 years. I think we are the moisture capital of the world <g>.

We use narrow crown air staplers. Because of our close proximity to the ocean, we use 1 1/2"stainless. Spendy buggers! I don't know if you get much wind in your area but if you do, stay away from brads of any sort. A good windstorm will find you gathering up kindling from your yard. Ask me how I know this. <lol>. If you do choose to hand nail it, I would reccomend a 5 penny shingle nail. Just ask for them at your local building center. Happy shingling! SH
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Make sure to install tar paper over the osb before you put the shingles on. SH
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Further to my roofing effort. I'm not trolling, just a duffer. The shingles I bought are No2 sawn shakes. Now that I'm ready to start the actual shingling, I notice the bundle has mostly wide shakes. My question: Do you have to lay out the shingles according to width, or just start installing. The bundle has wide shakes almost exclusively, on the top couple of layers at least. I realize there comes a point where (approaching a gable end for example) you have to split a shake to make it fit. What I'm not sure is whether you would also split a shake in the center of a course for no other reason than to break up a pattern of all wide shakes, except for a skinny one on the end. Hope this makes sense. BTW really happy with my new Bostich stick framing nailer. Did manage to shoot myself in the pointing finger this weekend though. No real damage, just a painful lesson. Leaked all over the nifty framing gloves that came with it. None the less, I having fun. Wife doesn't appreciate quality work. She just thinks I'm slow.
EA

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
ezalpha wrote:

You want to use a width shingle so that the butt seam of the next shingle will be offset from that in the previous row.
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Wide shingles cup and split more than the narrow ones. Mix them up and pick one that fits the requirement that it cover the joint in the previous course.
-j

shingles
you
installing.
layers
for
other
skinny
will
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Before you start read this: http://www.cedarbureau.org/

Remove the 'remove' in my address to e:mail me.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.