Installing Blum (European) Cabinet Hinges

I plan to use Blum hinges for the doors on the bottom half of several bookcases plus a set of kitchen cabinets. I'm interested in pointers and particularly comments about using the Ecodrill or other similar fixtures.
Thanks,
Bill
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Assuming you are using the Euro style hinges, as Bum is a brand and not a particular style. There are many styles to choose from in that brand. The hinges should come with a spec sheet to tell you exactly where to drill the hole in relation to the edge of the door. Typically I always use 1/2" overlay hinges that require a 1/8" offset from the edge of the door. I use a 1-3/8" forstner bit in a drill press to drill the holes 1/2" deep. I set up a fence on the DP table to insure that 1/8" spacing. Other than that I use no jigs at all.
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"Bill T. Ray" wrote:

> bookcases plus a set of kitchen cabinets.
You are going to need a 35mm or 1-3/8 Forstner bit.
The Freud carbide set of bits contains the 1-3/8 you will need.
Lew
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"Leon" wrote

the
all.
Ditto ... a fence, with two marks on it, one for each end of the door, are all the "jigs" you need if you have a drill press.
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I only use 1 mark on the fence, at the bit location. I put 2 marks on the door, 1 on each end.
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and I used two blocks of wood on two hinges, and use them as stops on my fence. Thataway the hinges are always the same distance from the end of the doors. You just flip them away. The other thing I did, I used a (IIRC) a 3" muffler clamp and attached a depth stop to the cylinder (quill housing?) of the drill press, so that the depth of the hinge hole is always 1/2", regardless of the thickness of the door.
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and I used two blocks of wood on two hinges, and use them as stops on my fence. Thataway the hinges are always the same distance from the end of the doors. You just flip them away.
On my first couple of kitchens I used stop blocks but found that the hinge location is not that critical in relation to up and down the door so I just align the marks on the door to the one on the fence.
The other thing I did, I used a (IIRC) a 3" muffler clamp and attached a depth stop to the cylinder (quill housing?) of the drill press, so that the depth of the hinge hole is always 1/2", regardless of the thickness of the door.
So you have some kind of indicator that makes contact with the door and allows the bit to go 1/2" deeper? That sounds cool for a dedicated set up.
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I'll take a pic of it when I use it next. The install is quick and I only use it if I have a whole kitchen to drill...which isn't often.
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"Robatoy" told us this tall tale...

I'm sorry, I just can't help myself.
You drill a whole kitchen??
That must be one big drill bit!!
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"Leon" wrote

LOL ... 20 doors, two marks; versus 20 doors, 41 marks?
I'll stick with my "jig" ... <G>
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Swingman wrote:

No marks.. I'll stick to mine.. :-)
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Are you making a mark for the "end" of the door? Ohhhhhh..
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Leon wrote:

MY way, you can hang the door left or right. ( Unless the door has a cathedral profile..and who does THAT anymore?) Just don't mount the knobs/handles yet.
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Well, hell ... MY way, you don't have to make no damn hinged stops, just use the pencil marks on the fence for the stops! Any good workdorker can eyeball a 1/32, which is 'perfect enough' for the task.
And, after all, Boudreaux always said things are a lot less complicated when you plow around the stump ... :)
BTW, just figured out why I haven't seen your posts the last few days ... this box decided to plonk your ass all by itself!
(Actually, I set a filter to get rid of that recent spate of Chinese spam, and all "gmail" ,and you, got caught in the net ... I was starting to think we'd got too rough n' tumble around here for an old fart like you ... :) )
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wrote:

I use one of these http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM 7-828&search=Euroeze I got it cause I had a LOT of doors to do and keep it cause it works pretty good. The setup takes a little time but once done a monkey could drill the doors.
skeez
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Blum also makes a drilling guide to use manually. The Hfele catalogue shows it.
With some hinges (particularly the ones which need a separately inserted cup) the difference between a 1 3/8 and a 35mm becomes noticeable.
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Bill T. Ray wrote:

I used one of these from Lee Valley, although I see they no longer carry them. They may be available elsewhere.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&pB274&cat=1,180,42240,53317
I don't own a drill press so I drilled them with a handheld drill. It was a bit of a trip but it actually worked.
Tanus
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Tanus,
A search of their site for "35mm carbide bit" brings up 3 products. One is for the bit that is no longer available as you stated. The next two are for a "professional" bit and a drilling jig which comes with its own bit.
Hope this helps someone here.
Peter.

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"Bill T. Ray" wrote in message: | I plan to use Blum hinges for the doors on the bottom half of several | bookcases plus a set of kitchen cabinets. I'm interested in pointers | and particularly comments about using the Ecodrill or other similar | fixtures. | | Thanks, | | Bill
I used a cheap small drill press with a wooden table and fence I made for many years. You can buy the proper bit from a cabinet shop supply. Mine is made by Bosch, but others have them. I recall mine costing about $35.00 in the 80's. I now use a Hettich boring and insertion machine, but I couldn't suggest that for what you are doing.
Have a good day, woodstuff
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