How to make painted OSB look halfway decent?

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On Saturday, April 12, 2014 3:05:41 PM UTC-5, Morgans wrote:

Awesome. Good to know. Thanks.
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On 4/12/14, 12:30 PM, Michael wrote:

Absolutely. But there's always a chance I'm reading their specs wrong. Best thing to do is to call their tech support and ask them their recommendation for the specifics of your application.
People often mistakenly presume that the purpose of cement board is to fortify or strengthen a sub-floor with too much deflection. That is not its purpose at all and it would be very poor at doing so.
Remember, the cement is serving two purposes. To uncouple the tile job from the sub-floor so they they can expand/contract independently of each other. And to prevent swelling (much greater and faster movement than seasonal expansion) of the sub-floor from moisture/water soaked into it from the wet environment above it.
When I removed the old tile from my bathroom before our remodel, it was still is pristine condition after 20 years. It consisted of 4x4 tiles on a thick self-leveling cement bed, on top of tar paper. The tar paper was enough to allow independent movement of the sub-floor and mortor bed, while the cement bed soaked up any moisture allowing it to evaporate without soaking into the sub-floor.
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On Saturday, April 12, 2014 3:30:22 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

Thanks for the info. That makes the bathroom project much more do-able. The internets was useful today.
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On 4/12/14, 3:05 PM, Morgans wrote:

Correct. If anyone in this thread thought we were referring to the dark brown paper press-board they use to make pegboard sheet from, then disregard this entire thread! :-)
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wrote:

That would save 1/4", but I thought that was for walls (over sheetrock). Anyway, I wanted to stiffen the floors, too. Worked great. I'll probably use it again, on this house. I have four bathrooms and a laundry to do (I hate vinyl flooring).
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On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 16:05:41 -0400, "Morgans"

Yes. Thank you. I was thinking about Hardiboard ("no, that's not right - that's the clapboard stuff") and then Hardipanel ("no, that's the stuff for board-and-batten"), must be... <rats!>
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I have two sheets of OSB that have been used as shipping container sides. They have weathered heavy storms and week long rain. Now they are made to stand water! Phew. Used a 4x8 sheet on top of a 4x8 pallet on my tractor fork and loaded a pickup load of plants and small trees.
Now it is handy as a work center and saves taking each and every plant or tree by hand.
The new flake OSB is tight and strong like it was designed for.
40 years ago they made it with water soluble and it was used on homes. Those melted after months. Caught that builder with his pants down!
Martin
On 4/12/2014 5:35 PM, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

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wrote:

Actually, it works very well for that purpose. It won't fix a rotten subfloor but it is as good or better than any other sheet goods for the purpose. The recommendations I've seen are a minimum of 1-1/4" of subflooring under tile. 3/4" ply with 1/2" Hardibacker works.

Interesting. I would have thought the tar paper would allow too much movement.
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On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 14:13:32 -0700 (PDT), Michael

It's a lot of work but none of it is all that difficult. Floor tile is easily a DIYer project. Wall tile is a bit more difficult, IMO. Gravity is working in your favor on the floor. ;-)
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wrote:

Because it isn't really a problem. Sprinkler systems are expensive and create their own problems.
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On 4/12/14, 5:42 PM, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

My point, exactly.
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On 4/12/14, 6:35 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:

Just to clarify... tile on its thin-set over mortar bed over moisture barrier over plywood had stood the test of time.
Tile on its thinset on plywood will last about 8 months or two season changes.
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On 4/12/14, 5:32 PM, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

3/4"-1/4"=1/2", no? According to their website, it's for floors, too. Again, I always call their tech support to clarify their published product specs when matched against my project specs.
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On 4/12/14, 5:39 PM, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

We'll have to agree to disagree on that. :-)
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wrote:

-(Thinset x 2)

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wrote:

Though they are required in some jurisdictions. Obviously someone thinks there's a problem.
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On 4/12/14, 7:56 PM, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

I guess I falsely assumed that 3/4" referred to the thickness of the hardibacker. Oops.
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On 4/12/14, 7:57 PM, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

That's a whole 'nother debate.
Many jurisdictions have some pretty ridiculous codes with many requirements based on little more than old wives tales or an anomalous occurrence that happened once but was sensationalized.
I think sprinklers are a pretty cheap and easy preventative measure that don't have any more inherent problems than the plumbing already in the walls.
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On 4/12/2014 9:38 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

glass out.... and you have a disaster.
Someone is painting knocks the glass out, and you have a runny mess disaster.
Someone pops a champaign cork and thinks it's great to let if fly... and you have a party disaster.
On the other hand, I think it can save lives. I heard on the news, that they want to make it mandatory in NJ, and I would guess by the wording that the announcers were reading, that would be required to sell your home... so you would not be grandfathered... How costly would that be.
--
Jeff

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WHAT?? I did my kitchen counters 17 years ago, you mean they are now kaput? Oh, wait...I used mastic, not thinset :)
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dadiOH
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