I would think multiple layers of primer and sanded between each coat
until you get a smooth surface and then add the paint.
It would probably be less expensive to get a smoother material to work
with to begin with.
Well, what we don't know is what the application may be.. We can't make a
worth while suggestion as there is not enough information. I could
picture the OSB already permanently in place and the possibility of not
being able to fit a better material over it.
I recently needed some sheet goods for a project. I could buy ply for
almost $40 per sheet or OSB for $11. I would have preferred ply but for my
use it didn't much matter...skim coat the OSB with drywall mud, sand with a
1/2 sheet sander, prime and paint and it is fine. And I am $100+ richer.
I'm sure the tile in my bathroom is over just the plywood. There are
a couple of loose tiles by the tub because of it. It'll all come up
in a year or so when we redo the bathroom (and get rid of the plastic
shower stall). I've had very good results with Hardiboard under tile.
Raising the floor 3/4" has been the only problem, in past jobs.
What steps? Fire resistant OSB? My current house has the I-beam floor
joists. I see nothing protecting them at all. They do seem to be
pretty susceptible to fire damage. Once the bottom rail is
compromised, there isn't much left to hold up the floor.
On 4/12/2014 10:07 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Most likely because you don't know what to look for; and/or the elements
of fire resistant construction, draft stopping, dampers, etc. are hidden
by wall coverings.
DAGS "Fire Resistance-Rated Construction", part of every
framing/building inspection I've ever been through, both residential and
"Swingman" wrote in message
wrote: >>> And, IME, great pains are taken in modern building science and
There seems to be a gap between the ideal and the typical when it comes to
this stuff... It is not unusual for me to see exposed 2x4 trusses or
I-Joists in basements in newer homes I've been in... That includes a
friend's 10,000 sq foot home that is about 6 years old... the majority of
the basement is finished but the ceilings of the two mechanical rooms and
the dead storage rooms (as compared to the pantry room, are not and the
trusses are exposed. Arguably, the mechanical rooms with the furnaces, A/Cs,
humidifiers, hot water heaters, heater and filter for the indoor lap pool,
electrical panels, etc. should be the rooms with the most fire resistant
It wasn't too long ago I read an article in either Fine Homebuilding or
Journal of Light Construction about putting drywall on the sides of the 2x4
trusses to make them more fire resistant... this was a retrofitting process,
not a construction phase process.
I don't think home owners appreciate the risks they face when the fire
proofing detailing is left out... They simply don't know any better and
surprisingly (to me anyway) even the home inspectors they rely upon are not
noting the issues.
> I don't think home owners appreciate the risks they face when the
> fire proofing detailing is left out..
By definition, five out of every ten folks who take a breath daily fall
on the left side of the bell curve with regard to intelligence.
The times we live in ... those of us who were raised in a time when
there was more value placed on being conscientious, than in being
cunning, do what we can.
After that it becomes inevitable that it is every man for himself.
Make sure you are understanding what material we are talking about.
Hardboard is masonite type stuff, sometimes used as pegboard or as a base in
making paneling. Don't use that.
Hardiboard is not anything, but it is close to describing the real product
we are talking about.
The name of the stuff we are talking about is called hardibacker. Brand
name. If you use that, then the answer is as follows.
Sure. That is exactly what it is designed for.
The key is to:
Use a material that allows some movement in relation to the wood underneath
Use a material that allows the mastic or grout to grab onto.
Has a co-efficient of expansion similar to the stone or tile being installed
Does not deteriorate over time as it is exposed to the moisture always
present when in contact with masonry products.
Meet those requirements, and you have a winner. Hardibacker or cement
board, both qualify.
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