I use the Granat in 120 and 180. I have not witnessed it tearing as easily
as the Cristal paper, it tore easily. But the Granat is not as heavy as
the Ruben paper. I am finding the Granat 120 lasting 4-5 times longer
than the Ruben.
Perhaps I'm a bit more careful but I'm really surprised as to how long the
Blue Granat lasts.
On Tuesday, April 19, 2016 at 12:16:49 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
Next kitchen refinish I have I will be buying the Granat. My biggest probl
em is the "pilling" of the old finishes on the paper causing them to be hel
d above the cutting surface. A very common problem in refinishing.
I know there are a lot of spendthrifts out there, but as far as wood work a
nd refinishing go (not addressing the fiberglass issue) using sandpaper unt
il it is worn out is a false economy.
The most astute observation on actual use of worn paper in my opinion was n
oticed above by John McCoy when he said " Beware of "polishing" rather than
smoothing the surface,which happens if the paper is too worn."
You would really notice the difference if you did a lot of staining, dyeing
and tinting of softer woods. Cutting paper gives a uniform surface and a
"rubbed" surface will really screw up a good coloring job, especially aroun
d burly areas. Years ago one of the guys on Woodworking Web (in the finish
ing/refinishing section) made it a point to take a look at the surface diff
erence between good sandpapers and then another look at the end results of
using worn sandpaper. The results were the same under magnification. Both
cheap paper and worn paper resulted in a "hairy" surface where the fibers
were not cut away. Tested with a light coat of stain, the side by side diff
erence was very obvious.
I like Ed's comment, too. "After spending $500 for wood for a project and
80 hours of time building it I'm not going to try and save $2 on sandpaper.
" Been my mantra for years as it only makes perfect sense.
I'll send you a piece. :-). I don't get pilling at all on cured oil
finishes. I removed an oil stained and oil varnished top a day after
applying the last coat. And that piece of paper did a lot more sanding
I'm not sure why that is happening. I bought a 10 pack 5", for my Rotex,
some time last year. I have used 4 pieces on 12 different cabinets. And I
sanded front and back FF's on both sides and the doors on both sides. And
I did not worry much about glue squeeze out on the joints. That is more
than 240 joints in stock less than 3" wide. I don't doubt you are
having issues but I'm not seeing a problem. Maybe the stiffness of your
I was sanding about 40' of 2-1/2" x 3/4" ash boards, with inside
corners along the 40', with 4" sanders. The RO125 really rips the
stuff up but my ETS125 wasn't immune. I probably went through a half
dozen sheets, some edges ripped almost immediately. It could have
been a pad issue. I only have the default pads (medium, IIRC).
Actually not. Sand paper that is worn out and and cutting slower like a
higher number grit does not cut as fast a new higher grit paper.
If the paper does not feel sharp you are pretty much wasting time. And
yes even 220 grit paper feels sharp when it is not worn out.
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