Heat Dissipation?

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When it comes to heat dissipation and your electronics in an entertainment centre, I was wondering which is more advised? Blow fresh air over your sound system or pull heated air away? What seems obvious to me would be to have fresh air blown in and heated air removed ~ two fans in effect. But, if you're only using one fan, is there a preference going with a particular method? Is there a difference as long as you have the air flow?
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May be quality equipment. I built a small center to house my electronics and to set my TV on. All the supporting electronics, Amp/tuner, DVD burner, DVD/CD player and HD DVR all live behind closed smoked glass doors but the back of the cabinet is 80% open. For 14 years the AMP Tuner has been in this spot with no ill effects except for the occasional burned out LCD back light. All of the rest of the components have done just as well. FWIW my Amp/Tuner is an upper end, $1K Yamaha that I purchased in 1994.
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"Leon" wrote

A comment about cables.
I put together big, multi monitor systems from time to time for the financial services folks. I had a system I was working on a few months ago and needed some simple DVI to DVI cables, 15 feet long. It took two days, numerous phone calls and several trips by car to locate them at over $35 each. These used to be available at the computer big box stores that have all gone out of business. I learned my lesson on this one. All cables will be bought ahead of time on line. Much cheaper and less aggravation.
I am putting a system together this week. I am buying all cables online. But many suppliers do not differentiate between the various products they sell or provide any educational information. I ended up buying from www.dcables.com primarily because they provided some basic info to narrow down my choices and tell me the differences between the cable products they offer. Also good pricing and fast service. My cables are due to arrive today or tomorrow.
You are right Leon. Let the buyer beware.
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This is a subject I know a bit about. I have consulted on a few studio installations where the equipment and people cooling not only had to be effective, but done quietly. (It was the latter part that got me involved) The short answer, is that 'pushed' air is easier to direct. In most cases, modern electronics will be happy with self-induced convection air flow. IOW, let the air in at the bottom, via strategically placed inlets (holes) and allow the hot air to escape at the top of the enclosure. It helps if the outlet at the top of the enclosure is larger in total sq.inches than the inlets at the bottom.
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wrote:

This is a subject I know a bit about. I have consulted on a few studio installations where the equipment and people cooling not only had to be effective, but done quietly. (It was the latter part that got me involved) The short answer, is that 'pushed' air is easier to direct. In most cases, modern electronics will be happy with self-induced convection air flow. IOW, let the air in at the bottom, via strategically placed inlets (holes) and allow the hot air to escape at the top of the enclosure. It helps if the outlet at the top of the enclosure is larger in total sq.inches than the inlets at the bottom.
Agreed, modern electronics are designed to operate is all types of conditions. As long as fresh air can enter and exit on it's own every thing should be fine.
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That reminded me of the college days when huddled, with a group of friends around some stereo equipment, and an ample supply of beer and smokables....that 'fresh air' was at a premium.
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This was one area I was wondering about. With the acrylic doors in the front, I can't envision any effective way to introduce any placed inlets. The receiver is sitting on a 3/8" acrylic shelf and although realistically I could put some holes in it, considering the weight the tuner, (there's marginal sag already), I'm really hesitant to introduce any possible weak points in that supporting shelf. All I think I'm left with in the end is some type of fan forced air inflow and another fan somewhere else to remove the heated air.
However, as Leon has mentioned, maybe I'm worrying needlessly. It is a higher end Yamaha receiver about a year old and might not need the attention I'm focusing on heat dissipation. I'm not a sound volume freak running it at 3,000 decibels volume every chance I get.
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wrote in message

I have found that if you maintain the spacing that the feet on any one piece of equipment provides, don't set it on a pillow or block the bottom perimeter of the unit, and provide at least that amount of room on the top side that you are normally OK
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What a properly cooled amplifier could look like:
http://www.wichitaphotos.org/graphics/wsu_ua.wsu.windtunnel.2.jpg
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wrote:
What a properly cooled amplifier could look like:
http://www.wichitaphotos.org/graphics/wsu_ua.wsu.windtunnel.2.jpg
I figured that clicking on the link would take me to somewhere like that, but I would have thought you could have come up with something a bit more, modern?
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It's a tube amp.
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Good point, I should of remembered that... For our karaoke gig, we've found that placing pen blanks on each side of the amp and mic receiver, as sort of foot risers, increases the air flow/cooling dramatically.. (the wireless receiver is stacked on the amp)
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
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"mac davis" wrote

Pen blanks, eh??
Maybe you should write an article on other unexpected and original uses of pen blanks. ;)
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On Jun 10, 12:22pm, "Lee Michaels"

I have some suggestions.....
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Nah - go into business selling them to audiophiles. You can make big bucks on something like this; charge $100 ea. for 4 blanks and claim they increase the sound quality if inserted between the amp and cd player.
Use a tropical hardwood and claim special 'damping' due to the internal resonance of the wood fibers interacting with frequencies in a narrow inaudible band above 20khz.
The resulting sound will be cleaner, bass will be crisper and the high frequencies will shine.
scott (there's a sucker born every second)
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Ahhh....., Monster Spacer Blocks!!
All the audiophile magazines will eat this stuff up!
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snipped-for-privacy@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal) writes:

You joke, but......

..and most of them watch cable tv. ("But wait! There's more") nb
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Upscale wrote:

Can you add a gap between the front doors and the bottom shelf?
> However, as Leon has mentioned, maybe I'm worrying needlessly. It is a

It all depends on the type of amplifier circuit and power supply. Many new amps use class D circuits, which are much more efficient (though often less accurate) than the old class AB designs, and so put out less heat. Generally you can tell by the weight/size of the amp...class D ones are usually lighter and shorter, while class AB amps are generally taller/heavier due to the large transformer(s) in them.
Chris
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Nothing that wouldn't look out of place. One thing I might consider in the future is fan assisted air input up through the bottom shelf with fan output somewhere near the top back of the unit. That type of air flow wouldn't have any effect on the aesthetics of the entertainment centre.

Going solely on that basis, it's an AB amp weighing in at close to 50 lbs. At least that's what it felt like when I was struggling to lift it in place. For now, I'm not going to worry about it. The entire back of the entertainment unit is open. If and when I get around to closing it in, I'll measure the temperature difference and decide then if I need to run some type of additional cooling assistance.
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Two things:
First (on topic, at least to OP): I'm surprised no one has mentioned this before, but why not get a thermostat controlled fan? You can get fans that only turn on if the temperature is higher that a threshold. So, what I would recomend:
Install a thermostat controlled fan, near the top back of the cabinet, blowing air outwards. Install a hole near the bottom of the cabinet (slightly bigger than the hole for the fan), with a dust filter on it (don't forget to clean it every few months). This will keep dust out of the system, noise down when your not overheating, and the temperature down when you are.
Second thing, off topic, but a personal crusade of mine: buy HDMI cables on-line. Having worked the past few years in the industry (specifically I wrote the HDMI firmware for high end TV's), I can tell you that in all normal cirucmstances (less than 20' cables, HDMI 1.3 certified cables for HDMI 1.3, etc), the picture/sound you get with monster cables is EXACTLY the same as the picture/sound your recieve for a $10 cable you buy on-line. Monster (and other brands) of cables give the retail stores really high margins, so they don't bother selling reasonable priced cables. I'm not sure if I'm more peeved by the fact that the retail stores think that I should be stupid enough to buy thier cables, or that there are enough people buying these cables at the outrageous prices to allow the retail stores to sell nothing but. Anyway, just had to get that out... phew... feel better now.
John
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