Hard felt wheel for sharpening chisels


I tried a felt disk (with the Veritas honing compound) on a flat platter sharpening system (I built it as a copy of the Veritas design) and the felt disk did the best sharpening job of any method I have used.
I just wondered if anyone uses a hard felt wheel on a grinder with the Veritas green honing compound and what you have found using that.
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I've been using one on a vertical grinder with white compound to put a razor edge on lathe skew chisels. Works very well. Never thought of using it horizontally.
What speed is it spinning at?
Walt C

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Walt Cheever wrote:

And I'd be interested in knowing how that setup would work on a chisel with a microbevel. Maybe if the blade edge were immediately adjacent to the edge of the platter it would be more efficient?
Just curious (and ignorant, but want sharp tools)... I just got a grinder and I'm tempted to put a felt wheel on it just to try and I'm thinking a microbevel would prevent the wheel fibers from reaching the tip of the blade. And how much bother would this be compared to just having a strop handy next to the workpiece?
er
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Enoch Root wrote:

No, the microbevel won't prevent stropping or using a felt wheel to further refine the edge.
Dave
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David wrote:

Maybe you were answering to this, but I was thinking specifically of when the chisel is being supported by a plate (which my understanding led me to believe was for the purpose of preventing rounding over of the edge while being stropped by the felt wheel...)
Now, do the plate and the inset caused by the microbevel serve to remove the edge from the effective range of the wheel?
------------, ` CHISEL ` <- bevel (say, 30 deg.) ` ,- area occluded ` / microbevel (> 30 deg.) -> \x`, _____________________________\xxx` , -------------------------------------- <- PLATE
'scuse my ASCII, I imagine that'll look like dreck in a browser. I imagine placing the edge near the edge of the plate would take care of that (if it's an issue...)
er
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[I stuck a bunch of replies in the same post for your filtering pleasure.]
On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:11:18 -0800, Enoch Root wrote:

Forget the rest of the bevel. Work out the geometry just for the microbevel. The powered version just works faster.
On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:32:24 -0800, eganders wrote:

You're not sharpening; you're honing. Grinder shapes, stone sharpens, strop hones.
On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 22:55:39 +0000, John B wrote:

( This guy doesn't shave the hairs off his arm, he cuts 'em lengthwise! )
On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:36:49 -0800, eganders wrote:

Honing, not sharpening. Practice, practice, practice, and check out some websites (dags) on honing straight razors. Strop away from the edge: it matters a lot for razors, but with knives it's just protecting the strop.

Leonard Lee "The Complete Guide to Sharpening" He's got the electron micrographs.
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Australopithecus scobis wrote:

I ordered that last week and the Titless Wonders[1] only today sent me an email saying there'd be a delay.
er
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1. I don't need to explain that... right?
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Well, no, but as I recall they only cut off ONE tit, to keep it from getting in the way of a bowstring.
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Been stropping my carving tools on similar for years.
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I have a couple of leather, hand made strops that I have charged up with the green compound. Works great.
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1625 rpm motor+arbor with 6" circle of MDF and jeweler's rouge (sears). Sharp and FAST! Can't take credit for the MDF, idea came from a fellow rec'r. Whole shebang for under $20. It's sad to see someone who needs a $300 setup to sharpen chisels or irons.
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It would appear that leather (if I could charge it well enough) would be even better since it is harder and would not seem to have a tendancy to round the edge. I have one cut out to put on my platter (the Veritas knock-off), but when I first got it it was stiff and was not flat (It is a really thick piece of saddle leather). I have soffened it a little, but the smooth side is hard to charge. The more suede side seems very rough--rougher than the felt.
What approach do you use to manually strop a chisel? I would think that the only direction you could use with a chisel would be away from the edge which seems like a hard way to sharpen a chisel.
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Felt under power is pretty rigid. How you hold and press the tool determines whether or not you round over.
I strop away on leather, just like the barber. Same on felt. As to "microbevels," makes a better edge with stropping, doesn't remove enough material to matter.
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eganders wrote:

I have a piece of belt leather about 8" long glued to a bit of timber. Give it a dose of whiting every now and again and it sharpens chisels beautifully. regards John
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Sharpening knives seems good with a strop, but I can't see how you can maintain the correct angle easily. I would assume that you have to draw it only 1 way (away from the edge) or you would cut the surface of the leather.
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I use this for honing carving chisels (works fine) but not for bench chisels (a leather strop is a lot handier).
Ken Muldrew snipped-for-privacy@ucalgazry.ca (remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
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