Gluing to finished wood

I need to attach a new piece to some old cabinets I made. The surfaces of the original cabinets have (18 year old) poly on them. I could do the job with angle brackets - it would be inside the cabinets, where no one would see it - but I wonder if there's some kind of glue that would work. The connection points would be bare plywood edge, 3/4" x 2", attached to the face of finished birch ply. It will hold no weight.
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On 3/5/2012 6:01 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

original cabinets have (18 year old) poly on them. I could do the job with angle brackets - it would be inside the cabinets, where no one would see it - but I wonder if there's some kind of glue that would work. The connection points would be bare plywood edge, 3/4" x 2", attached to the face of finished birch ply. It will hold no weight.
Mask off the attachment point on the finished wood and sand that to bare wood. And or use Epoxy as your adhesive.
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On 3/5/2012 7:22 AM, Leon wrote:

I doubt I'll go that route, since there's an easier option (screws and brackets).
But for future reference, what would you use to mask the area? If it was bigger, I suppose I could mostly avoid the edges. But for such a small patch, what would be both thin enough and tough enough to protect the surrounding wood and still allow the kind of aggressive sanding it would take to go through a few coats of poly?
Oh, and when you said "and or", did you mean that epoxy would adhere properly to the finished surface?
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On 3/5/2012 8:59 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

The masking, with masking tape, can protect the area masked should stray slightly. You would still need to be careful however if you slipped once or twice the tape would probably help.

I think Epoxy would probably stick to either surface, finished or not.
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On 3/5/2012 8:59 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

Try "Quick-Set CA glue" (cyanoacrylate adhesive). It will adhere to most finished surfaces, particularly if there is no stress involved.
While having done this many times when adding pre-finished trim to pieces that have already been finished, I often take the opportunity to also use a pin nailer at the same time.
YMMV ...
Be sure to get the thick variety. Rockler or WoodCraft should have it.
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Narrow sanding block or beater chisel used as a scraper.
Best "masking tape" would be a couple of 1x2's clamped to either side of the area.

Got some 5 minute epoxy? Give it a test. Likely, you're going to have to scrape.
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On Mon, 05 Mar 2012 04:01:51 -0800, Greg Guarino wrote:

I've had pretty good luck with liquid hide glue on surfaces finished with shellac. But, as in your case, they were not load bearing joints. I don't know if it would work on poly.
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