fun times making butcher block


Recently I decided to make an end-grain butcher block. This will only be my second project with hardwood (the last was some purpleheart edging on ply).
The tricky bit is that I've only got an old Rockwell 9" 3/4HP table saw with the old crappy fence, no planer, no jointer. (I do have an LV LA-jack though, with the higher-angle iron.)
Bought some maple and cherry to make a nice pattern. Maple was 2x8x21, cherry was about 2x7x21. Had to pay the stupid retail prices around here. The maple was supposed to be S4S, but it had some slightly bits where the planer hadn't quite gotten to the rough stuff.
Milled the boards square and flat using a jack plane, straight edge, and table saw. Bit of a workout, but very satisfying.
Last night I ripped the maple into 2x2 strips. I put a ripping blade on it to stress the saw as little as possible. Considering that the saw has no splitter and no way to add one, I was a bit nervous. I also wasn't sure if it would have enough power to get through the wood.
It actually turned out pretty well. Power wasn't too much of an issue (though I'm sure it helped that the blade had *just* been sharpened). Pinched the blade and stalled the saw twice, but got the job done and the cut lines don't look too bad, though they'll certainly need some planing. I had nightmares of things warping, but so far so good.
Anyways, tonight I hope to get the cherry ripped, then some planing to get the edges smooth and lined up nicely.
Making sawdust and curlies in Saskatoon,
Chris
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Slightly offtopic, but I saw that you have a 9" Rockwell table saw, and wanted to say "Hey 9" Rockwell Table Saw buddy!" I have my dad's old Delta/Rockwell (model 34-657) saw, and I haven't had any luck finding anyone else with a similar one.
Do you have a place where you can get 9" blades, or do you do what I do and buy the largest blade under 9" you can find?
And to get back on topic: What are you planning on using to attach all the pieces of wood together?
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N Hurst wrote:

I picked this one up cheap from a friend of my dad's.

Mine actually came with a couple blades. I wanted a better one, so I found *one* place in town that had *one* decent 9" blade. They do sharpening as well, but they're aimed at the industrial market so they're only open office hours.

Probably titebond III, for the bit of extra water resistance. Although I'm still open to suggestions from anyone who's done it before.
Chris
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My grandfather has an old Rockwell that I'll inherit as soon as I get enough space for it. I'm not sure if it's a 9", but it's an old cabinet saw with a small planer atttached. The fence is junk, but the saw itself is very substantial - I'm pretty sure it's more than 3/4hp. Anyway, as far as glue, have you considered PU glue (like Gorilla glue)? Has more working time than std wood glue, claims it is waterproof, and actually needs some moisture to cure properly. I haven't used Titebond III, though - I'd be interested to hear how that goes. Sounds like it will be a nice butcher block! I'd like to see a picture when you're done. Andy
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Andy wrote:

I'm thinking about the PU stuff. If I can get the blocks milled to within .003" I might consider it. Apparently, any gaps bigger than that and it starts losing strength.

I hope so. I'll put something up when the time comes.
Chris
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I made 5 cutting boards for Christmas presents using combinations of cherry, red oak, hard maple, mesquite, purpleheart, and walnut. I used Titebond III throughout and LOVED it. . .but you've got to work fast. Be sure everything is ready to go before you pull out the spout. I used an ink roller I got at an art supply store to as an applicator which I think is absolutely mandatory for spreading glue evenly.
Dick Pewthers Austin, TX

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N Hurst wrote:

I have one with an attached 4" jointer. As long as the saw is kept tuned up/aligned properly I have had no problem cutting anything I want to. It's a good basic saw that has served me well for twenty years. Maybe someday I'll move up to a 10" model. Bugs
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