Freud SD208 stacked dado cutter?

I'm in need of a good dado cutter to make 1/2" box joints in a drawer unit I'm building. I currently have a carbide tipped wobble dado blade but its setups are not accurately repeatable and the results look like the piece has been worked over by a dull toothed beaver. I've been looking at reviews of the Freud SD208 because it has carbide tips and it's less than half the price of the Forrest Dado King.
I've seen comments, however, that the unit produces some chipping and/or tearout, even in materials that would be considered easily machined. Is this true? If so, how bad is the problem? Or are the complainers just being too picky? I plan to use 1/2" Baltic birch ply for the drawer boxes.
Obviously, I'd like my project to be as eye appealing as possible but for the extra $150, I can live with some minor blemishes.
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On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 17:59:48 GMT, "Chuck Hoffman"

I have both tools.
I used the 208 for 6 years, the DK is about 4 times. I am being VERY picky when I compare the two. Many people wouldn't notice the difference. The main difference in the two is what happens on the end of cuts, in splintery woods like red oak. Most of the tear out can be prevented by properly supporting the back of the cut, applying tape to the face before cutting or pre-scoring the dado edges. A test cut will let you know if the material you're working with needs the extra treatment.
The DK lets me get lazy and saves some time, and I like the 3/32" chipper.
Barry
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If you need the dado blade, it's a good choice but for your project, you could build a Lynn's jig for about $6 and be able to do any size boxjoints at any thickness you wanted with your standard 1/8 blade.
Don

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That's a good suggestion. I had seen descriptions of Lynn's jig but never studied it in detail before.
It also gives me a starting point for micro-adjustment ideas for my shop-built tenoning jig.

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