Forrest WWII, Table Saw set up, What the HELL!?

Damn lightning knocked me off and I had typed this nice little old message up. Anyway, the Reader's Digest condensed version.
Having problems with teeth marks on the wood using WWII, remember? Checked the set up as best I could without having the dial guage and all. Looked pretty good to me.
Decide to see if sawdust or something might be between the blade and the blade flange. As I was taking the blade off I remembered something I forgot to mention in last weeks message. The washer between the nut and the blade is a PITA to take off. The washer won't slide off nicely; I try spinning it off and the washer spins on the arbor. I have to use a wrench to gently persuade the washer to come off. After taking the blade off and blowing the arbor and underside of the table clean, I put the blade back on but I leave the washer off thinking that this washed might be part of the problem. I have the Forrest 5" dampner on the outside of the blade as well.
I ran a few pieces of wood through. The walnut came out flawlessly. I was impressed. The maple came out damn clean as well or so I thought. With a third or fourth look at the maple, you can see and feel teethmarks, but nowhere near what I was seeing the first time I set up this blade. The piece of maple I ripped was a section of unfinished flooring. The cut with the WWII blade is smoother than the top of the flooring.
So here's the things I'm thinking about: 1. What kind of piece of crap washers is Delta handing out? 2. Was the washer to blame? It seems flat, but not as flat as the dampner. 3. Why am I seeing the majority of the teeth marks on the first so many inches of the wood? Almost like as soon as the wood comes out the back of the blade the teethmarks stop. 4. Is the problem the fact that I don't have a splitter set up? Just thought of this one. I don't use the guard which has a built in splitter and I don't have a splitter in the table insert. Been meaning to get one in there to help with kickback, but I don't have much kickback to mention.
In any case, I can live with the result from the WWII with a smile on my face, but if I can get it that little bit of teethmarks gone, by changing my technique or putting in a splitter, so much the better.
Thomas
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Thomas,
Get the Delta arbor nut kit http://tinyurl.com/ju4z for $20 and keep the other nut for when you use your dado set. You won't believe the difference it makes.
Check your fence - sounds like it is not flat and has a bump or high spot about the location of the blade. You're already checking the fence to blade positioning - now check how flat the fence is.
Yes you should use a splitter of some sort and be sure its aligned correctly and is the width of the blade you're using (thin-kerf or 1/8" regular kerf).
Bob S.

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http://tinyurl.com/ju4y .
Don't know how that happened but the original tinyurl gave a redirect and say's this is the correct one.
RW36659 is the part number
Bob S.
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pixelated:

Wow, only TWENTY BUCKS FOR A NUT? <thud>
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You know I noticed the fence was slightly cupped when I set up the TSIIIa, Woodpecker immediately sent me a replacement, just haven't taken the time to install it. I'll have to see if the fence is bowed as well.
Bob S. wrote:

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Bob S. wrote:

I didn't know Delta made these. Are there any other specs or descriptions for this part? Delta's website doesn't say much about it, and they don't even show an image for it yet.
Incidentally, the part you referenced (Delta PN 36-659) is for right-tilting Unisaws; the part number for the left-tilt version is 36-660 (which Woodworker's Warehouse doesn't seem to carry).
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Something to consider and this came up often in the automotive tire business. No wheel or tire is perfectly round. If you have a tire that appears to be out of round beyond specs, you rotate the tire 180 degrees on the wheel and try again. If your cut improved after removing and replacing the blade, or for that matter after rotating the blade on the arbor, you may have solved a slightly out of round arbor and blade. If you find the sweet spot, put a spot of paint or nail polish on the blade and the arbor or inside flange to mark the best location for the blade to be mounted on the arbor.
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That's a good thought. I've decided not to take the blade off until I have to, but when I do, I might mark the location on the blade and arbor. Like I said, I'm a lot happier with it than last week. If I mark it as it is I can try moving the blade about to see if it does make a difference.
Thomas
Leon wrote:

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With regard to the flatness of the washer for arbor nut ... put a piece of sand paper on your table saw top and rub the washer back and forth on it until it's flat and shiny.
What does the blade do without the damper?
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I'm not sure what the blade does without the dampner. At this point I'm not sure I want to test fate and mess things up worse than they are. I'll likely try taking the dampner off tonight though to check. As far as that nut is concerned though, it's never going back on the saw. Too much of a pain to remove. I was curious to see if there's a safety risk of not having that nut on there, but I read that with a full set stacked dado blades on the arbor, you can't use the nut so, I guess it's not an integral part of the set up.
Swingman wrote:

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