Forrest WWII blade

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snipped-for-privacy@universalclock.com wrote:

Wanna sell it? If it's the full-kerf (1/8") version, let's talk. Send mail to woodworks at milmac dot com
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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...and I thought I was the only one. I got a used WWII with a saw I bought. I already owned a Frued TK906. Given all that I had heard about the Forrest, I sent this one in for a resharpening. I can't say it is a bad blade, but it is no better than the Frued TK906 (not even a top-o-the line Frued). I have had both now for a couple years and I use the Frued more often than the Forrest. To me the WWII is a good blade that is over priced.
Dave Hall
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Holy Crap. I've never seen a blade with that kerf. Even the biggest logging chainsaw blade cut no more than about 1/4". What size motor do you have on your saw?
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No chit. Never heard of a Powermatic 60 either, at least not a table saw
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

I bet I will be filling lots of sawdust garbage cans, won't I? Don't make fun of the dyslexic man. It isn't nice! :=)
Harvey
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eclipsme wrote:

The only problem I have now, I love my Forrest WWII, is I DO change my blade MORE often! This is because I save my Forrest blade by constantly switching to a cheap carbide blade when cutting everyday chores. If I am ripping tomatoe stakes out of old 2 X 4's for instance I don't keep the Forrest in the saw. I guess I could have the nicest, smoothest tomatoe stakes in the area but I'll stick with sawmarks and keep the "good" blade from the re-sharpening shop, (Forrest's), for awhile longer.
Tim Q www.alisam.com , "A-LEE-SAM" Home of the Sharpening Sled
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Unlike cheaper blades, the Forrest stay sharper longer. I only switch blades if the wood is dirty.
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eclipsme wrote:

In my opinion, you get much better results using a seperate ripping blade for ripping, and a seperate blade for plywood/cross cutting. I do very little crosscutting on the table saw (use miter box). Although I will point out that I'm using a contractor's saw. On a 3 HP cabinent saw, maybe a combination blade does a good enough job ripping.
It takes maybe 45 seconds to swap out a blade, don't see what the big deal is.
I use a Freud ripping blade, and I can glue up right from that, unless cutting the wood causes some internal stresses that cause it to bend a little after the cut, but you'll have that problem no matter what blade you use.
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Depends. A good combination blade will out perform a cheap single purpose blade any day.
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I used to think that way. I had a good combo blade on a contractors saw and had a 12" miter saw station. When I upgraded to a Jet cabinet saw I went with the Forrest WWII and completely quit using the miter saw all together. I only change the Forrest when I send it for resharpening or to cut dados.

Not a big deal unless it is not necessary. I would be changing many times a day.

Have you tried a standard kerf Forrest WWII?
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Leon wrote:

How exactly would a different blade keep wood from warping after the cut is made?
Chris
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I don't think it would. My reference was more towards him using a Freud blade for ripping vs. simply leaving a WWII on for all cuts.
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