Flutes continued

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GarageWoodworks wrote:

If you need a good reason to help talk him out of tapers, altogether....
The idea behind fluted trim is to architecturally imitate Romam columns, which are not tapered. <
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-MIKE-

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Bothe ends is how I've always done it.
... The customer is always right (and a pain inthe ass)
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Morris,
HUGE improvement!! Thanks. The router climbs with greater ease now and the end result is better. It is a much natural climb and the base ouf the router doesnt slam to a hult when it hits the wedge.
Check out the result here:(under reply)
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php
I might play with different radiuses
Thanks again!
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Hmm, I don't recall having these problems but it has been a while since I used this detail. I just did my own fireplace and would have liked to do it but was in a bit of a hurry with other pending projects so I just did standarad stops.
I do recall that I usually used a very large add-on base on the router to add more heft to the router so maybe the inertia overcame the stall at lift. I think beveling the front edge of the base and using a radiused ramp will both be added to my repitoire.
Really nice work. Such a small little difference but it will please your eye forever; just like my round ended flutes on my firplace bug me every day... :-(
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On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:53:48 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks

Oh, I see what you ended up with. You hollow-ground the edge to quicken the transition a bit. I thought you might be hanging up on the opposite edge, the 45 degree away from the point, hence my original post. Mea culpa.
-- We have too many high sounding words, and too few actions that correspond with them. -- Abigail Adams, letter to John Adams, 1774
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As the router starts to climb the ramp, it is only supported at two points due to the round base plate. Using a square baseplate will make transitions smoother.
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Yes. I noticed this problem. My router PC plunge is round on one side and flat on the other. Initially I was climbing with the round side and it had a tendency to wobble as you stated. I flipped my fence to the other side of the router and climb with the flat side. Much easier this way. Good tip.
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"GarageWoodworks" wrote: ------------------------------------------- Yes. I noticed this problem. My router PC plunge is round on one side and flat on the other. Initially I was climbing with the round side and it had a tendency to wobble as you stated. I flipped my fence to the other side of the router and climb with the flat side. Much easier this way. Good tip. -------------------------------------------
Think of a flute as a specialized version of a mortice.
You cut a mortice with a plunge router using a home made morticing jig that clamps to the workpiece.
You can use the same concept to cut a curved flute.
Build a jig that attaches to the router with side runners that capture the stock thus preventing router rotation, but slide relative to the workpiece.
These runners can then also follow a guide that contains the required curve to to provide required curved runout and are clamped to the work piece like a pair of vise jaws.
The only thing left is to provide a means to index the router for multiple flutes which requires the router to move cross wise to the jig.
Lew
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That's a neat idea. Have you made this jig?
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"GarageWoodworks" wrote:
That's a neat idea. Have you made this jig?
Only in my mind; however, many years spent doing machine tool design work, probably gives me an edge.<G>
Lew
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