flat bottom forstner bits

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notbob wrote:

Good to go brother. Thanks for your cooperation. I've had to go through my share of ameliorating my comments over time in this group. There are many here who could attest to that.
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On 3/30/2016 7:19 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:

Same here
... and welcome to the forum notbob.
> Thanks for your cooperation. I've had to go

LOL ... we love you anyway, Mike, even if you do talk funny. ;)
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Thank you, Swingman.
nb
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Air drill is the solution for metal less torque when it bites and stops, I have done through steel up to a 1/4 inch with bimetal hole saws, used a lot of WD40. You do what you need to do to do the job with what you have.
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On 3/30/16 3:41 PM, notbob wrote:

Just stop. Stop digging the hole. It's embarrassing. I've drilled hundreds, yes, hundreds of holes that size and larger with a handheld battery and corded drills with holes saws. That thing you showed is antiquated.
Sit back and learn from those with experience. Not googlectuals.
Peanut gallery. Wow.
Sheesh.
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On 3/30/2016 3:09 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Actually so has the automotive industry. Hole saws were used with a hand held drill to add AC systems to vehicles as a retrofit many years ago. Refrigerant lines had to be run from under the hood through the firewall into the evaporator unit.
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Note I never sed, "it can not be done". Also note the U2B video speaks of the problems of drilling metal with the tools shown and even shows the tools binding, stalling, etc.
I might (but, prolly not) try this with my DW portable battery drill motor, with sed clutch mechanism, but definitely not with my Milwaukee 1/2" drill motor w/o clutch mechanism (400rpm). The first time that Milwaukee caught, it'd probably almost break my wrist (BTDT!).
You wanna try it? Be my guest. I'll use a stepped-bit or a drill press, thank you. ;)
As fer "the automotive industry", I've frequented those sound-system chop shops. Their "hole saws" were defeated by my '66 Dodge van dashboard. Perhaps they were using "old school" hole saws.
Yes, I AM "old school". Not all my drill motors are battery pwrd and have clutches. NOT all my pwr tools are StopSaws or Festools. Funny that a hobby like woodworking, which so highly prizes "old school" hand craftmanship, takes me to task fer not having the newest technology. That's OK. I unnerstan. ;)
BTW, my 1/4" paring chisel finally arrived. Yay!
nb
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On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 6:20:12 PM UTC-4, notbob wrote:

Why does it appear that you just keep forgetting that you said:
"Never happen in metal."
"Using a hole saw to make a doorknob hole ina door. I see yer point about using the hole saw in wood. Never happen in metal."

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DerbyDad03 wrote:

Don't waste your time with this guy. He's just a contentious person who is bent on proving everyone else wrong in life. Let the idiot just go away.
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notbob wrote:

Man - you are one contentious person who is bent on going off on tangents that have nothing to do with comments that have previously been made. Bet you don't really have a lot of friends in life...
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Yeah, I suck. 8|
But! ....I have faith that all you perfect people will set me straight and will eventually mold me into the exact person you want me to be. I'll jes sit here in the corner and think precisely what you instruct me to think.
Jinkies! We having fun, yet? ;)
nb
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notbob wrote:

Nobody perfect here, but dude - just take a look at yourself and the way you interact here. Says it all.

Apparently you are...
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Darnist thing I saw was a Satellite tech do is drill through a metal building with a high speed flat drill used for wood. I thought I'd see metal snagging easy. Cut nice. I figure a toothed Forstner drill instead.
Martin
On 3/30/2016 3:09 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

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On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 13:09:22 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

Considering they sell Bimetal holes saws for making holes is see his problem, but do not think notbob will.
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On 3/29/2016 11:44 AM, notbob wrote:

Ascetics if the hole will not be filled.
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On 3/29/2016 11:22 AM, Trenbidia wrote:

Yes! and why I mentioned doing this on a DP. ;~)

Good Forstner bits are not cheap. Cheap Forstner bits can be cheap.
With out a center spur the bit has to be well made and sharpened to keep it on track. FWIW I would choose a Fuller bit over a Bosch or Freud if I needed to accomplish an excellent result repeatedly hundreds of times.
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On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 11:57:27 -0500, Leon wrote:

It was a drill press where I found out about the problem - the hard way! I had the work up against a fence and a stop - the stop should have been on the other end!
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On 3/29/2016 9:13 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

BUT not even that bit creates a "totally" flat bottom hole, it still creates an indentation around the perimeter of the bottom of the hole, and typically about as deep as the spur center on those that have them.
The Forstner bit requires the perimeter of the hole to be cut first, like a brad point bit and then the flutes cutting edges cut out the center and leave a flat surface.
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Yes true Forster bits drill flat bottom holes. They also leave a small dimple and often an indention around the perimeter of the bottom of the hole, but the bottom is flat.
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