Finish for oak end tables

[Brian Turner]

I am kind of new to woodworking and am building furniture for our family room. I am building a TV stand and end tables out of red oak. I am very close to Amish country in Ohio and found out that they use catalytic varnish for the top coat finish. I can't seem to find catalytic varnish sold in local woodworking stores as it seems to be a commercial product. Can anyone tell me a comparable finish to use for the DIY wood worker or a source for catalytic varnish? Since the tables are being used in the family room they need to be resistant to water and other liquids when setting or spilling glasses or cups of beverages on the tables. Thanks in advance for your help.

[js]

shellac. Water resistant. I would imagine the Amish use this as well.

[Mike G]

For the uses you are describing I don't see any reason to complicate things by worrying about exotic finishes. If you really feel you need lots of protection just get an off the shelf polyurethane varnish. It will do the job just fine.

[Bay Area Dave]

perhaps you meant "conversion varnish"? It's available at Sherwin Williams, for one. But don't buy it unless you like working with hazardous materials. It's got some real nasty chemicals in it.

Instead, IF you have any HVLP you can get good results with Enduro water borne lacquer or poly. You have to order it via 1-800 or look up Compliant Spray Systems. You can also get a catalyzer that makes the finish more durable, which could be added when spraying the top. As a matter of fact they suggest that you only add the cat. to the final coat. I bought some cat. but haven't needed to use it yet. The poly goes on beautifully with HVLP. Dries fast. Must be sanded between coats for adhesion according to the mfg. I haven't taken any chances and recoated without sanding...

dave

Brian Turner wrote:

[Wilson]

Varnish isn't a very good protectant for dings, especially if you have kids. I vote for polyurethane over plain wood conditioner.

[stoutman]

Not to be a smarty pants Wilson but, polyurethane is a type of VARNISH.

[stoutman]

From what I have read, shellac is not known for its water resistance properties.

And is it the best finish for a table top with regard to durability?????

[Wilson]

had to re-read. I thought he meant lacquer.

[js]

Shellac is extremely water resistant. and yes, its durable, and easy to repair.

[stoutman]

I have Never used shellac, but I have read about it. :)

In Understanding Wood Finishes (my finishing Bible) by Flexner, he says that "shellac is probably best known for its limited resistance to water, alcohol, heat, and alkalis..."

Damaged by alcoholic beverages, heat will soften it...

"Because of shellac's POOR resistance to water, alcohol heat, and alkali, its NOT the best finish for tabletops or other surfaces that are subject to frequent use. But can be used almost everywhere else."

Again, I have never used shellac, this is what Flexner has written (a well respected finisher).

[js]

read up on it here. Alcohol will soften it if its strong enough, but how often you going to have alcohol greater than 50% on a table? and it isn't "use it on kitchen counters water resistant, but more than suitable for what you want to use it for. what do you think they used before varnish and poly? .

[stoutman]

I also don't use candles to light my house, I use some of them new fancy light bulbs. :)

Many improvements have been made in clear coat finishes. They used shellac back then because they didn't have the choices we have today. Why not use what's best for a particular application? Table tops can take a hech of a beating. Shellac as a Top Coat is not as durable as some other finishes (polyurethane). However, as you mentioned, shellac is easier to repair. But I would rather spend my time doing other things then constantly repairing finishes.

durability?????

[Juergen Hannappel]

[...]

... or use a "natural" and robust finish, like wax. My parents have a maple kitchen table wich was waxed once, about 15 years ago, and although it's not spared anything looks as good as new. The only stain that seems to be paermanent was caused by a mushroom, which let it's spores fall onto the table, giving an interesting pattern, because it traced the mushrooms gills.

[stoutman]

You have to admire a German physicist who also likes woodworking! :)

Cheers.

[jev]

Flexner, in his book Understanding Wood Finishing, says "Because of shellac's POOR resistance to water, alcohol, heat and alkali, it's not the best finish for tabletops or other surfaces that are subject to frequent use."

I'd vote for a polyurethane finish which has highest resistance to water damage and most duraable finish altho v hard to repair - usually requires stripping/sanding if top gets really messed up.

[Bill Benitez]

You could use Bartley's Gel Varnish. I've had very good luck with it on dining room tables including my own. It is easy to apply and does not raise the grain so requires very little, if any, sanding between coats. I normally sand the surface to 400 grit and then apply the first coat. After that I do a lite touch between each coat with 600 grit. I suggest a minimum of four coats and even six in high use areas.

Bill Benitez [e-mail]

[Bay Area Dave]

shellac prevents water vapor from penetrating the wood, but it is NOT "water resistant"

dave

js wrote:

[Andy Dingley]

Of course it's there, it's extremely common. So common in fact that the "catalysed" part isn't normally mentioned. The only time we do regularly talk about "catalysed varnish" is when it's not pre-catalysed (as most of them are) but it's something like acid-catalysed floor varnish that needs to be mixed immediately before use.

Get a copy of Flexner, or Google this ng. for more finishing information than you can shake a stick at.

-- Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

[Keith Carlson]

"Now shellac is rarely used as a finish except by high-end antique refinishers (which ought to tell you something)." I think that tells me that antique refinishers are trying to match the original finish which, by definition, would be what was used something like

100 years ago. Not that it's a superior finish. It has it's place, but based on what I've read in the Flexner book, I wouldn't use it on a table top unless that table was meant to be show-only.

[Mike G]

Just to satisfy my curiosity. Where did you find Bob Flexner discussing catalyzed varnish?