HOW? You clamp a piece of ply to the base on the inside, then snug your FF up against it. Nothing could be simpler. Certainly easier than trying to get a consistent lip without another reference.
Actually, and I have done this to get a consistent lip, using the same method you mentioned to make the FF flush, cut a 1" rabbet across the end of the plywood that you clamp to the inside base and let the depth of the rabbet index your consistent lip.
I'll have to look but I guess I didn't make it clear. After the dry fitting and cutting, biscuit slots are cut in the joints of the face frame. IE rails to stile. Glue is applied too both the back of the rails/stiles, carcass, and, of course, the biscuits and joints where the pieces join.
The with the rails in place the second stile is dry fitted to them for the clamping purposes of closing the rail/first stile joint.
With all the face frame joints biscuited and glued in what way do you think they are not rigid?
Well, I think I misunderstood. Somewhere I understood that some of the joints would not be glued. Apparently I was incorrectly visualizing what you had written.
Absolutely, until you go out and find minimum wage labor to do it.
UA100
After having a subcontractor fail three separate times to put kitchen cabinet blocking in a stud wall in the right place, that is a good point.
Your system makes sense, and most importantly, as you said, it works for you. What I find peculiar (not quite the right word here, but it will have to do) is that under your system in which the FF sets the "framework", if a side/top/bottom panel of a cabinet is not quite right on the money in size, you then have to adjust it. For those who build the carcass first and then the FF (by whatever method), if the FF is off in its size it is easier to adjust it than it is to adjust a panel as under your method. I.e., it is easier to take 1/32 off a FF component than it is to take 1/32 off a plywood panel -- at least for some of us.
Of course, if one is very good at measuring, marking, and cutting panels to size, no adjustments are necessary. In some ways, I can see aspiring to your system. I just don't see my ability -- in the near-term, if ever -- to meet its inherent standards. In any event, hats off to you for making it work. -- Igor.
Thanks. That makes sense.
About the clamping, do you clamp the FF parts sideways to each other AND to the carcass (at the same time)? Do you use edge clamps?
While I appreciate the need for/benefits of squaring (and the potential contribution of the FF) as others have mentioned, it _seems_ to me that your system is a bit more forgiving and adjustable -- versus Swingman's system, which seems completely logical but not at all forgiving -- for those of us who may need forgiveness from the woodworking gods. -- Igor
Once again, two words, important concept: "Batch cut"
Granted, this is assuming that you have the tools (table saw in particular) to do batch cutting.
Batch cutting your parts almost always insures this won't happen (nothing is "always" in wooddorking).
IOW, I normally don't care if a part that is "supposed" to be 12" is acutally 11 63/64" instead, as long as ALL the other supposedly 12" parts are 11 63/64" also.
AAMOF, I don't always use a tape measure to make the parts. I often use a story stick I made on site, so I have no idea of the precise dimension in units of whatever.
Actually, it _is_ an easier method by far for the unskilled than any other ... how do you think I picked up on it? ;)
Sounds like something they taught us in NCO school (also Officer school) would apply. You can delegate authority, but never responsibility.
Contractor gets minimum wage?
In some parts of this country you wouldn't believe what passes. What I was referring to was factory help, as in factories where cabinets are made for places like Home Depot.
And you wonder why their prices are soooooooo low?
UA100
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