I'll have to look but I guess I didn't make it clear. After the dry
fitting and cutting, biscuit slots are cut in the joints of the face
frame. IE rails to stile. Glue is applied too both the back of the
rails/stiles, carcass, and, of course, the biscuits and joints where the
The with the rails in place the second stile is dry fitted to them for
the clamping purposes of closing the rail/first stile joint.
About the clamping, do you clamp the FF parts sideways to each other AND to
the carcass (at the same time)? Do you use edge clamps?
While I appreciate the need for/benefits of squaring (and the potential
contribution of the FF) as others have mentioned, it _seems_ to me that
your system is a bit more forgiving and adjustable -- versus Swingman's
system, which seems completely logical but not at all forgiving -- for
those of us who may need forgiveness from the woodworking gods. -- Igor
Heh heh .. different strokes. As long as his casework is perfectly square
by itself, this works, but I have never been that lucky.
Being one of those that if something can go wrong, it will, my preferred
method is to always make the FF first and take great pains in their assembly
and squareness, batch cutting all rails and stiles, and checking, and double
Any FF that is not dead-on perfect is scrapped.
The cabinet sides, floor, and top on a wall cabinet, are then assembled _on_
the perfectly square face frame.
From then on out the cabinet is absolutely "square", they butt up to
similarly built cabinets with no gaps, and MOST importantly, the 36 doors
and umpteen drawers are guaranteed to fit right ... the first time.
Roofs on, plumbing rough-in and top out passed, electrical and HVAC started
... now begins the endless minutiae and problem solving. Good news is that a
serious offer has been made, so we're actively looking at lots for this
And speaking of cabinets ... I need to actually get off my duff and practice
what I preach in the FF department, real sooooon now! :)
It is my understanding from Swingman's post that he measures the carcass
_to_ the FF (I may be wrong about this), while you measure the FF to the
carcass. Also, I thought that squaring of the cabinet was done and _set_
when the back piece is attached. Certainly that is what happens (and is
all that could happen) w/ frameless cabs. So what is the big deal with FF
and square? -- Igor
I jumped too soon. I build the carcus first, the face frame second, and
then attach. After doing these for several years you learn what to watch
Also, I thought that squaring of the cabinet was done and _set_
For the tops I use backs but still rely on the face frame to square and keep
square the cavinet. For the bottom cabinets, which I have been building
lots of lately I do not use backs for the cabinets. I leave it all open so
that the plumbing does not become a nightmare when installing on bathroom
and kitchen jobs. Typically the wall is painted white and it helps to make
things lighter down there.
Certainly that is what happens (and is
Possibly so however I have never built any frameless Euro style cabinets.
So what is the big deal with FF
I do not know. It is very easy for me to build a square face frame and as
long as the cabinet is built square and with equal height sides the frames
Do you mean this literally? Could you prvode more details? For exampl,e do
you lay the assembled FF on the floor/table and then attach each cabinet
piece, one at a time, to the FF? W/ biscuits? -- Igor
wrote:> >The cabinet sides, floor, and top on a wall cabinet, are then assembled
My first step is usually to build all the face frames, for both upper and
lower cabinets, _before_ I ever buy any sheet goods.
Dado/grooves that accept the case parts are have been previously cut in the
FF rails and stiles and then the FF assembled (sometimes days or weeks
before the next step).
Dado/grooves that accept the floor, top and back panel have been precut into
the cabinet sides
Previously made FF is laid on the assembly table, face down. The cabinet
sides, floor and top are glued into the grooves pre-cut in the FF and
Note: All parts (FF and case parts) are batch cut beforehand, as batch
cutting is the best way to insure uniformity, accuracy, and therefore,
"square". (I try to NEVER move a fence until all the parts with the same
measurement have been cut.)
Assembling as above, using the known and carefully "square" built face frame
as a template, insures a square cabinet follows.
"Square" means BIG, HUGE benefits/savings in time and money during
installation, and the making and fitting of doors, drawers and door fronts.
This works well for me... as previously noted, it certainly is not the only,
or even the "right", way to do it ... ymmv applies.
Your system makes sense, and most importantly, as you said, it works for
you. What I find peculiar (not quite the right word here, but it will have
to do) is that under your system in which the FF sets the "framework", if a
side/top/bottom panel of a cabinet is not quite right on the money in size,
you then have to adjust it. For those who build the carcass first and then
the FF (by whatever method), if the FF is off in its size it is easier to
adjust it than it is to adjust a panel as under your method. I.e., it is
easier to take 1/32 off a FF component than it is to take 1/32 off a
plywood panel -- at least for some of us.
Of course, if one is very good at measuring, marking, and cutting panels to
size, no adjustments are necessary. In some ways, I can see aspiring to
your system. I just don't see my ability -- in the near-term, if ever --
to meet its inherent standards. In any event, hats off to you for making
it work. -- Igor.
Once again, two words, important concept: "Batch cut"
Granted, this is assuming that you have the tools (table saw in particular)
to do batch cutting.
Batch cutting your parts almost always insures this won't happen (nothing is
"always" in wooddorking).
IOW, I normally don't care if a part that is "supposed" to be 12" is
acutally 11 63/64" instead, as long as ALL the other supposedly 12" parts
are 11 63/64" also.
AAMOF, I don't always use a tape measure to make the parts. I often use a
story stick I made on site, so I have no idea of the precise dimension in
units of whatever.
Actually, it _is_ an easier method by far for the unskilled than any other
... how do you think I picked up on it? ;)
Think about it this way.
1. If you spill something in the cabinet, would it not be easier to wipe or
sweep it out over a flush edge than a raised edge?
2. Does it seem that a flush fit would be harder and require greater
expertise than having a lip?
Expo does have some decent stuff but it will never compare to well thought
out and well built cabinets.
The very reason I commented with the comment I commented
with, the added cost of labor to sand the two surfaces flush
with each other and not sand through the veneer on the
cabinet bottom, i.e., experienced workman.
UA100, who doesn't have a problem with the lip, just that
"better made" casework doesn't have a lip...
Ahh.. I am not saying the absence of a lip represents better made, just less
fuss to produce the lip. I sometimes purposely design in a lip to cut down
on labor time. A flush fit would be an exact fit where as with a lip any
height within reason is acceptable.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.