Dutch doors

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inexpensive monitor system could be installed. Modern electronics, cameras and moinitors are plentiful and much cheaper than they used to be.
And if some problem kids are going to yell, perhaps some sound proofing.
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wrote:

Both? So it breaks into crumbs, but sticks to the middle layer? Cool.

If you can't get Plexiglas, limit your enrolment to Plexikids.

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zxcvbob wrote:

Woman from the church talked to a finish carpenter (or maybe a cabinet maker) yesterday and he said it couldn't be done -- even with a solid core door because the panels would come apart if it was cut. ??? Of course, I don't know what she really asked him.
I have a table saw, jointer, and router. I may just make a door from scratch and use Formica for the door skins instead of Luan to make it more durable. How hard could it be? (if it's a disaster, I'll learn something, and no one else has to know :-) Spruce 2x6's aren't that expensive...
I should probably hang it before I apply the skins so they don't chip at the edges if the door needs to be trimmed.
(Somebody stop me)
Bob
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The skins will need a substrate if you're going to use Formica. 1/4" ply would do you.
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Robatoy wrote:

To keep the rails and stiles and blocking from telegraphing thru? I was planning to have quite a bit of internal bracing (because of the window) and fill the voids with foam sheeting (to deaden the noise.) Not arguing, just trying to understand what you mean. Thanks.
There are hollow-core slab doors with windows in them at work. I'm gonna take some measurements today.
Bob
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Not true about the hollow core doors.
I had to make some off standard size doors and started with hollow cores. I cut them to size, knocked the cardboard stiffener out of the way on the open edge and milled a piece to fit the gap and glued it in.
Once I sanded the edges it looked almost like the factory edge.

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Jay Giuliani wrote:

I thought so.
I'll see if Menard's has any prehung hollow core slab doors. Hollow core probably has only 2 hinges, so it'll be easier to add another pair before I cut it (instead of having to move the center hinge and add a 4th.) I've been looking at windowed hollow doors at work and they have a relatively small window off-center and away from the hinges -- doesn't reduce the strength as much that way.
I might can do the whole thing in a weekend for < $100. If I ruin it, I haven't ruined much. (the window will be trickier than cutting and reblocking the edges) Thanks.
Bob
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On 2/1/2009 3:02 PM aemeijers spake thus:

Good advice there.
When I was going to install a Dutch door, my customer asked me to check code on it before going ahead. So I talked to the local building inspector (City of Oakland), who was very helpful. Basically, he asked me what kind of door was there before (it was a hollow-core door), and said that since the existing door wasn't fire-rated (and didn't need to be), the Dutch door needn't be either.
So what I took away from this is that if one is installing a Dutch door to replace an existing door, assuming that the existing door is code-compliant, than the Dutch door should be built to the same spec as the existing door. If the door is fire-rated, then the Dutch door needs to be as well.
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