dust collector control

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wrote:

I tried remote and didn't care for it... you have to carry or find the remote to use the DC...
What works well for me is a hard wired remote switch (romex and standard light switch) mounted above the bench near the hanging saws and stuff.... it's within a step or 2 of the machines that I use the DC on, easy to find and inexpensive... YMWV
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
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wrote:

I'm a hobbyist, so sometimes it's a whole week, maybe two before the shop gets a good workout. I have used the Long Ranger for at least a couple of years without a failure. I clip it to my pants pocket so never lose it (well, mostly never) while working because I never have it in my hand to set down. Where I get into problems is when I'm done for the day, or take a break and take off the apron, which means I take the remote out of my pocket and set it down.
I've been making an effort recently to quit losing it. This started when I lost it one time, and finally found it in the shop fridge next to the Dr. Pepper. Last few months I have been trying to train myself to set the remote down in the gap along the rail between the table saw and the fence. If I remember to do that, I find it quickly when I come into the shop. If I forget and just set it down, it invariably will be eventually found way down towards the bottom of Tunnel #3.
If my self-training fails, I may just smear it with tuna each day, and let the Shop Cat earn his keep.
Regards, Roy
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Years ago I did the same. Now I set my remote on top of my table saw fence and it's always there. The LongRanger is red so it is fairly easy to spot. Now where did I put my keys?
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I have the Jet air filter on the ceiling and the remote came with velcro... I put the velcro on the front/side of the RAS arm, since I walk past it to enter or leave the garage/shop, and have never felt the need to carry it around... I use it like a light switch and it's a lot harder to lose if it's always stuck in the same place... especially as in my case where it's a bit higher than stuff usually piles up.. *g*
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
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"mac davis" wrote in message

remote to

LOL. But it's great for those of us who never lose our car keys, and know exactly where everything we own is ... unless someone else uses it.
--
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I am about ready to change my stationary tool switches to three pole and run low voltage through the spare contact. That would in turn control the contactor for the DC. Not sure how the NEC code would view that but it would work. Probably too pricey as well.
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I got my remote from Grizzly. It came with 2 controls. I hang one by my TS and one by my planer.
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R. Pierce Butler wrote:
> > I am about ready to change my stationary tool switches to three pole and > run low voltage through the spare contact. That would in turn control the > contactor for the DC. Not sure how the NEC code would view that but it > would work. Probably too pricey as well.
I've already posted the lowest coast, legal means to accomplish the task.
You want to try to reinvent the wheel, that's your business.
Lew
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I wanted to keep it down to one button which would turn on the tool and the DC. If not, then I will go with your idea of a separate pushbutton at each location.
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R. Pierce Butler wrote:
> I wanted to keep it down to one button which would turn on the tool and the > DC. If not, then I will go with your idea of a separate pushbutton at each > location.
Piece of cake.
Use two (2) momentary push buttons(start/stop) and a small, 3 pole control relay with 10A contacts.(they are known as "Ice Cube" relays)
Use one relay contact to control the tool, another for the D/C and the 3rd contact as a holding circuit for the relay.
Stop button breaks the holding circuit which stops the tool AND the D/C, unless it is being used by another tool at the same time.
As a bonus, you get undervoltage protection.
Lew
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That would work of 120VAC but for 220 I like to shut off both hot wires. I guess I would need a 4 pole for that application.
Know of any time delay contactors for the DC? I would like it to stay runnning for 'n' seconds after the "OFF" button has been pushed.
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R. Pierce Butler wrote:
> That would work of 120VAC but for 220 I like to shut off both hot wires. I > guess I would need a 4 pole for that application.
Yes.
Easiest way to do it is to pull L1, L2, N for each tool + one (1) control wire for the D/C contactor coil.
You can get a time delay for most relays.
Strictly a guess, probably adds $100.
Lew
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R. Pierce Butler wrote:

I haven't done it yet myself (still renting right now) but the most elegant way I've seen is to use a current-sensing switch right in the breaker panel.
If your larger tools are all on their own separate circuits, its fairly easy to rig up a current sensor to detect flow through those circuits in the panel. You then hook up a relay to turn on your dust collector whenever any of those tools are turned on.
You'd still want an override when using it for other tools, or for the floor sweep, etc.
Chris
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On Thu, 24 Aug 2006 01:58:18 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"

I have a LongRanger remote. I wish I had bought it a long time ago. I got the 220v model which is better for a DC since it gets turned ON/OFF a lot.
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Depends on the switch on your DC...
"If" you get mag start switch, remote controls are not really available.
Cheaper switches can be handled by remote controllers.
R. Pierce Butler wrote:

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I hard wired a switch on a long extension cord to the plug of my DC.
Place/hang the switch box close to the switch of the machine I'm using.
Not very elegant or hi tech, no place for batteries, difficult to misplace. The only thing it seems to do well is turn my DC on and off.
LdB
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