Dovetail Jigs

Just beginning with woodworking and would like to dive into dovetailing, but don't want to do them by hand, time is short and I'm not aiming to be a master craftsman. I'd just like to be able to make some drawers and boxes for practical storage purposes.
I've got the Porter-Cable plunge router kit and would like recommendations on perhaps the best and easiest to use. Why's and why nots would be appreciated.
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I gave the $39.95 or whatever it was half blind jig to another woodworker that then donated it to a school. I now have Keller through jig and find it's easy to use, effective, and can be used for whatever width wanted. Sold with both bits and within 5 minutes I was making sawdust. Around $135.00.

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(Amazon.com product link shortened)97090627/sr=8-1/ref=pd_ka_1/102-8414327-3309741?v=glance&s=home-garden&nP7846
TEW wrote:

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only does through dovetails but on something like a drawer you can add a false front and there you go, instant half blinds.
--
MikeG
Heirloom Woods
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Well, i hate to break the news to you, but by the time you learn to make dovetails, and drawers (and boxes) correctly, you will have taken a large step to becoming a "master craftsman". The router you have should suffice provided you get some guide bushings such as these: (Amazon.com product link shortened)97088890/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2_etk-tools/102-8875951-9600916?v=glance&s=hi&n"8013
I've used a number of different jigs by different manufacturers. Mostly lower to mid grade units that overall will perform well, such as this one: (Amazon.com product link shortened)97089270/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2_etk-tools/102-8875951-9600916?v=glance&s=hi&n"8013
These type blind dovetail jigs limit the max depth your drawer or box to 12" (or 16" if you get the larger jig). Also, to end up with 1/2 the pin showing on the first and last dovetail, the drawer size may have to be limited in depth to 1" or so, depending on your template. But they are affordable for anywhere from about $50 to $150. Setting up the jig and router to get the dovetails to fit tight and right will most likely be your biggest challenge. After that, and a little time for the learning curve, you can make dovetails to your hearts content with jigs such as these.
I have yet to use a good quality dovetail jig, such as the Leigh d4 (it's on the top 5 list of things to get next though!) They are more expensive -$400 or so - but the fingers are adjustable thus making dovetails to accomodate most any depth drawer. I'm sure another member will pick up the ball here and offer firsthand advise on how hard or easy it is to set it up and use jigs like this.
In any case, get a good quality sharp dovetail bit. Stay away from generic bits, as generally, the shank is to short to use safely in a larger router. (trust me on this one!) Be prepared for some trial and error if you are new to this. None of the jigs will make dovetails a "no brainer" and all will require some thinking and practice. --dave

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TEW wrote:

Would you consider splined miters? These you could work on with a minimum of fuss and they are still good looking.
Google's first is
http://www.djmarks.com/stories/djm/Splined_Miters_46854.asp
Joise
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TEW wrote:

splined miters with photos!
http://home.austin.rr.com/sawduster/Dovetail%20Key%20Boxes/Dovetail%20Keyed%20Boxes.htm
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I use the Katie jig. Similar to the Keller, but allows you to do variable spacing. Works easily and can be used on a router table. A little more expensive than the phenolic Keller, though.
Michel. www.woodstoneproductions.com

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The website link didn't work.

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Thanks for ALL the replies, tips and suggestions.
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