Delta TS alignment help

I own a 10 inch Delta Contractor's saw. For a while I've been suspecting that either my fence or blade alignment is a tad off. I checked my fence alignment and it appeared to be okay. To do a rough check of my blade I attached a small strip of ash to my miter gauge. I cut the wood half way by running it through the very front of the blade. I then set the wood at the back of the blade and ran it through backwards for the other half. When I looked at the cuts there was a 1/32 inch difference from where the front of the blade cut the wood and where the back of the blade cut the wood. So I reasoned that made blade alignment to my table is slanted about 1/32 of an inch. Finally, to the point. Is this amount acceptable and what can I do to correct it?
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I'm not sure what you have said demonstrates anything more than a misaligned miter gage. Tough to get my mind working on your description.
Order of alignment, published in the owner's manual is blade parallel to groove, fence to blade/groove.
To check blade to groove, you can get a piece of scrap to fit in the groove, screwed to another at right angles. At the end of the one running toward the blade, you can screw in a flathead screw which you may use as a touch gage, or, with feelers, measure error. At any rate, you want the gage to touch at the front and rear of the blade, using the same tooth to reference, to assure parallel.
Don't neglect the unspeakable - your grooves may not be parallel. Check them both.
Now align your fence either to the groove or the blade. I like a touch of daylight extra on the far side of the blade with my fence, though you'll find a lot of people who don't, and some who can't seem to figure out that there's no induced rip error in doing so. A bit of an anti-kickback from the days before pawls.

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Hey thanks!!!!!!!!!! That touch gauge w/ a screw jogged my memory! I started rummaging through all my WW magazines (I need to get those things organized) and AHAh!!!! I found it! Wood Magazine Issue 152 from Nov 03. Article entitled "Tune up your table saw to perfection". Went through all the steps and my blade alignment was about 1/32" off. They even had a picture of a Delta contractor's saw showing where the adjustment needed to be made. My fence was good as well as my miter gauge. Now my wood feeds easier and with no burn marks.
Joey in Chesapeake

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Doesn't matter if the gage is aligned or not. It still travels the same path in relation to the blade. His method was just fine.

There's nothing to figure out. Misalignment is misalignment. Any misalignment will cause the back side of the blade to bear more heavily on the wood. Take your pick which side this is on though if it is going to be misaligned, better to do as in your method so the wood doesn't get pinched between blade and fence.
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As I said, there are some who will never understand....

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Yes, you appear to one of those. It's not hopeless though. Enroll in a geometry class, it might help.

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Is this going to turn into one of those "mine is bigger than yours" threads? I sure hope not
Bob McBreen
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I have no idea what you are talking about.

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[posted and mailed]

loose you would be amazed the size hole in the wall a small piece of wood can make. Not to mention if your hands get dragged in behind the board as it shoots. Once witnessed a piece of 1/2" square stock break a 1 1/2"x12" birdseye maple sawhorse 30' away. The guy got a quick lesson in overhead fences.
As for fence alignment... there should be adjustment at the arbor bearing pillow blocks to square the blade with the table. Most rip fences can be adjusted also. I prefer to add a board to the front & back of the fence. for the board on the back of the fence screw on a piece that can be clamped to the table top at the rear of the saw. Set the fence for the cut measuring from fence to both front and rear of the saw blade. Tap your rear fence block in or out as needed then tighted it down. Make a test cut. Take a pencil and use the side of the lead to color the edge of the board you just cut. If all the lines appear top to bottom toward the same direction, tap your fence in or out a bit to correct. Lines will indicate which part of the blade was last in contact front or rear. Make test cuts till the pattern is a series of xxxxxx (you'll see where both the front of the blade and back of the blade both left scratches) down the edge of the board.
Now if you are talking vertical alignment... look under the table. There is a stop bolt usually with a lock nut for 90 degrees give it a twist till you are vertical.
Razz
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