Delta Mortising Attachment Review

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Can we review here? Why did you say that the chisels larger than 1/4" were nearly "useless". Do they not function as well, or do you consider tennons larger than 1/4" overkill?
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Oh, sorry. I just bought a mortiser and throught you were attacking mortise chisels larger than 1/4". Then I realized your insults were directed at chisels used on a drill press. Carry on !
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It ain't about how it looks, it's about how it fits. I'm not sure what "square enough" is in your book, but if it's not pretty close the walls of the mortise won't be flat. Carpenters glue is not gap filling.
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Scott Post snipped-for-privacy@insightbb.com http://home.insightbb.com/~sepost /

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"square enough" in my book is "pretty close". :)
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wrote:

I've done "considerable" mortising of white oak and the Delta attachment works fine. I even did some thru holes (1/2") for thru tenons and they ARE rectangles with smooth sides. The white oak stock was nearly 2" thick. I did the first 1 1/2" or so from the "blind" side, then turned the lumber over and did the final 1/2" from the visible side so that there would be no tearout on either side.
The tool ain't perfect, but for the price... ;-)
Jim Stuyck
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You know, I was just thinking about this in relation to my brand spanking new mortiser. How to square the chisels... The important thing is the relation of the fence to the chisel, so how about this... Two ways to set the chisel up, if you don't trust your eyes to do it close enough. Remember most mortises after several holes in a row will line up fine, even if each one is on a slight diagonal, the overall effect is a straight mortise with each hole a degree or two off. The wood probably won't notice...
Here's a couple ideas to set it up with more certainty. I'm going to do #1 because its easier....
#1) Make an T-shaped chunk of hardwood (or butt join two pieces to form a "T"). Also, form a bottom (a 3rd side) on the L so its like a corner piece. This bottom will give you something to rest the chisel on if you have a center hole like I do, and support the chisel at the right height when you're tightening the set screw. Slide the jig over to the bit, referencing the top of the "T" on the fence. Now slide the fence up and the jig over until the chisel is in the corner
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Thats what I was planning to do on through tennons. But let me ask you this, would putting a piece of wood under the work (and cutting partway into that) do the same thing? Or would that not be quite as effective ?
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I'm not sure what version I have, but it only came with 3/8" chisel. I think for the price, and depending on how many mortices you're making, I could possibly rate it 3 stars. In harder woods, I found that I had to consciously look at the depth stop, because I was bearing down so hard on the press that I pushed it right through the stop I set up, thus going down too far. Maybe a mark on the chisel would have helped.
I haven't done anything with really hard woods, however. And I could definitely see how it could be difficult with the effort I had to exert on Mahogany.
Anything that requires a nice clean through mortice, however, will still be made with the router.
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I'm making a maple side table
1/4" chisel was just as easy in maple as it was in red oak.

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:) You must have had a special species of ultra hard red oak then!
dave
stoutman wrote:

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