In my last post I had milled up enough rail and stile stock to make 21
I don't have any overall great plan on how this kitchen gets built, each
step relies on the previous one. All I really started with was the outside
dimensions of the spaces the cabinets need to fill.
For making the doors and drawer fronts, I placed painters tape on the boxes
and marked out the overlay for doors and drawers,
The hinges are for 3/4" overlay, so that is how far I marked back on all
sides, except for a 1/2" overlay where doors meet on a common stile.
Once I had recorded these measurements, I made a cut list from there,
All stiles are the full length. Rails are 4" less on all doors and drawer
fronts. Side panels rails are 3-1/4" less to account for the narrow stiles
that meet up with the face frames. This is fairly easy math as my rail and
stile stock is 2-7/16", 7/16" being the tennon length on the rails. Panels
are 1/16" less than the rails and 4-1/16 less than the stiles. The drawer
stiles are only 1-7/16", so those panels are only 2-1/16 less than there
stiles. It is marginally more complicated than that, but not much.
I cut up two and one half sheets of 1/2" MDF for the 21 panels,
I installed my 15º flat panel raised panel bit in my router table,
I wasn't getting the size of tongue I wanted, so I removed the bearing to
allow a greater depth of cut.
When I was running narrow boards, I used a second piece of MDF behind it to
be sure everything wound run straight,
You can see here almost all the panels run,
I then primed both sides of the panels with a shellac based primer,
A light sanding removed all the fuzzies from the panel raising. It was much
easier to sand the profile before the doors got glued up.
Not the best pic, but you can see the 84 parts cut up on the jointer that
are the rails and stiles for the 21 doors,
Here is a shot of me setting up for the cope cut on the end of the rails,
This is pretty idiot proof, I align the top cutters lower edge with the
lower edge of the cut profile.
Next I make sure the cutters bearing is flush with both fence faces,
When the straight edge is slid back and fourth, the bearing should roll, but
the strait edge should not rock between fence faces (all three are in line).
Making a cope cut,
You know when you have the cope bit at the correct height when there is only
the smallest wisp of material left on the top and/or bottom of the cope cut
When you are coping the rail ends and have a square back edge, you can use
any board to back it up to prevent tearout. When the profile edge is at the
back to need to first run your backer board through the cope bit to run a
profile on it,
Now the profile fits into your backer board and there will be no tear out,
Now the fun begins, I can start gluing up doors,
I place a stile in my bench vise and drop both the rails and the panel into
it. I pop on the top rail and do a test fit. I remove the rail, add glue,
flip and repeat.
Next over to the clamps, align everything with the fine adjustment tool
(small brass with wooden face hammer) and tighten the clamps,
I was only able to glue up 11 doors tonight as I ran out of clamps and time,
I hope to get a few hours in the next few days to glue up the other 10
Thanks for looking,
Every Neighbourhood has one, in Mine I'm Him.