I recently read about storing finishes in a cabinet with a 60W bulb and
a thermostat to keep them at a stable temperature. This would seem to
be a much more economical solution than using an electric heater to keep
the whole finishing area warm.
Glad I could help.
Back when I lived in Montana my shop was heated with a wood stove but had no
separate room. I just made up a box large enough to carry the glue and
finishes and kept it in the heated bunk house till the shop reached a
A pain but it worked. Of course when the last of the kids moved out the bunk
house became the shop. Much nicer.
No more than any other kind of direct heat. Gas, oil, or electric all
provide ignition sources. If you want to be completely safe from the risk
of having your heating system ignite the dust then you have to go with
steam or hot water or a heat pump without backup (regular electric heat
uses a red-hot filament, heat pumps don't get much if any any hotter than
the backside of an air conditioner).
Do keep the dust swept up, especially in the immediate vicinity of the
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
On Mon, 03 May 2004 12:07:17 GMT, "js"
Depends what sort of work you do. Neander-only is fine, a sawbench
wouldn't worry me, but if I was regularly routing MDF without dust
control I just wouldn't do it.
You may also find that local safety rules simply forbid woodstoves in
I wouldn't worry too much about it. Remember wood stove's where the only source of heat for many hundreds of years and people still did wood working in heated shops. Obvious precautions should be taken like not storing wood too close to the stove ect.
I'd not worry about the dust collection as much as solvents and the fumes
One big caution. Wood stoves may be cool because it has not been burned for
a day, but the can still be a hot coal or two under the ashes. You may
think you are safe and start using a solvent based finish and BOOM ! ! !
If you are using a kerosene or propane heater you know the flame is out.
Wood or coal, not so.
FWIW, solid fueled heaters are not allowed (National Fire Code) in garages
attached to a house. You may have other local code issues.
It depends on the ratio of hand tools to power tools you use and how
messy you are. My grandfather had a wood stove in his woodshop for 50+
years and never had a fire. He was very neat and was afraid of power
tools too. :)
No BoomBoom for me! - snipped-for-privacy@BoomBoomVerizon.net
Research I've read indicates that the particulate density required for a flame to
propagate in a dust cloud is such that visibility
would only be about a meter. So, the rule of thumb I use is - If I can still see the
far wall of the shop, the dust cloud won't
ignite. That doesn't say anything about solvent fumes, nor will I.
Wichita, KS USA
Yeah. Solvent fumes, except for water, tend to create a really nasty "foomp"
I recall seeing a buddy get ready to toss a few ounces of gasoline in a wood
stove. It worked, and he claimed he did it often, but I was outdoors waiting
before his arm got all the way to the release point.
Other solvents are even more volatile than gas. I'd find some other way to warm
the shop before finishing, I think. Propane and kerosene burners work well, and
can be shut down a few minutes before finishing work is started.
"Don't let yesterday use up too much of today." Will Rogers
Only if your dust collector isn't grounded. Oops! Wrong thread! <G>
I would do it, but I wouldn't use solvent based finishes or glues
while it was lit. I'd also be picky about where the stove was located
compared to major dust generators, like router tables, power saws, and
sanders. Care should be taken to keep the area around the stove, and
the stove itself, clean. I have an oil-fired furnace in my shop right
now, complete with internal open flame.
Just 'cuz I would do it, dosen't mean you should. It's not my fault
if you blow up.
Ah, well, maybe I'm close enough. If so, I'll move away.
"The lust of avarice as so totally seized upon mankind that their wealth seems
rather to possess them than they possess their wealth." Pliny
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