Cedar and galvanized nails

Has anyone heard that I can't use galvanized nails with cedar wood. Someone has suggested that I will get some sort of chemical reaction. This will be used on the outside of my house with a good coat of latex paint covering it. Tks. Chuck
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Chuck wrote:

Hot dipped galvanized nails should be okay. See:
http://www.soundcedar.com/lumber/siding/installation/nails.php
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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Nova wrote:

If you do not want the nails to "bleed" all over the holes use stainless.
The reaction is to the stuff in cedar that makes it the wood resist rotting.
Does not matter if the nails are painted over they will rust in short order.
Mine did and I switched to stainless - no more rot and no more bleeding
P D Q
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Nova wrote:

Thank you. The siding that I am replacing has galvanized nails and I see no sign of stain. The siding was installed in 1972. I will go with galvanized. Now to see if I can use a nail gun.
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Chuck wrote:

CAUTION: There're two kinds of galvanized: dipped and plated. Make sure you get the dipped.
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HeyBub wrote:

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Good choice. The SS screws won't rust like the galvanized. SS won't streak wood like galvanized.
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I had a gorgeous cedar clapboard job ruined because the nails gave up the ghost. The dark streaks made it an eyesore. If it's painted you'll _probably_ not have a problem with galvanized nails, but I'd use stainless anyway. It's cheap insurance. R
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snipped-for-privacy@attt.net says...

Yes, sounds right. When we bought cedar to clad my folks' retirement home, the supplier warned us against galv and suggested bronze or stainless nails. We used the bronze ... just have to be careful to hit them square on (which is why we didn't let my father nail any). He's an old sailor with two left hands and 10 thumbs.
-P.
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Well, McFeeley's is in the business of selling stainless steel nails, so they might be a bit overselling, but here's a link that claims hot dip galvanized nails aren't the best option with Western Red cedar:
http://www.mcfeelys.com/stainless-nails
On the other hand, the Cedar Shake & Shingle Bureau recommends stainless, hot-dipped zinc, or aluminum nails.
http://www.cedarbureau.org/installation/wall_manual/page05.htm
Suffice to say, the coating on a galvanized nail might fail and might stain, while stainless will not.
If you go with galvanized, get double hot-dipped nails, which should eliminate defects in the coating that will stain.

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Chuck wrote:

My 30 year old cedar sided house has spiral galvanized nails, acrylic "stain" and nary a rust spot. Maybe those old nails were better.
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Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
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Gerald Ross wrote:

Does "They don't make them like they used to." soud familiar?? <G>
P D Q
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PDQ wrote:

OK I am gonna use SS. Screws. Square drive and about 2 1/2" long, Thanks to all for the input. Really appreciate it. Chuck
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I have not heard that "you" can't". ;~) I build more fences than the average wood worker. I build them with cedar and galvanized ring shank nails, in a nail gun. You will get some discoloration, eventually, if left exposed to the elements.
IF you are also using any "modern pressure treated wood" be sure and get the ACQ specified galvanized nails or they will react with the PT wood and fail prematurely.
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You can buy screws for cedar they are brown anodized coated
http://www.sportcompactcar.info/4084364/987676/Phillips-Ii-Cedar-Screws-User-Review-44763.html

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Hot-dip galvanized nails should work ok, provided that they have a good, thick coating. The problem I've seen in the past few years is that the coating is not nearly as thick as in the past, and it can crack and flake when being pounded in to the wood. Of course, a path for water into the steel will lead to bleeding. When I installed my cedar deck, all of the reputable advice (e.g., not from the fastener manufacturers) recommended stainless steel fasteners for cedar, so I swallowed hard and bought stainless. Still looks great! Except now I kick myself for not swallowing a bit harder and buying ipe decking.
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