These damn cast iron table saw tops are nuthin' but trubble!!! Isn't it
time to find a better solution?
How about .....
2. Teflon coatings
3. Hi tech plastic composites
I'm votin' for oak. You just rub her down with some nice tung oil to
slick her up and every month you can run yank it off and
run her through your planer for a fresh new surface. The top would be in 12
inch wide 4 inch thick T & G sections so you can have a table as wide as
Any other ideas? Let's have 'em. maybe we can get rich quick! lmfao.
On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 09:43:18 -0700, bridgerfafc wrote:
There is a number known as the "coefficient of expansion". It's in the
tiny decimals for cast iron and aluminum. Comparatively speaking, it's
off the map for any wood.
Besides which, if you want cast Fe any flatter, you can just lap it in. Do
a good job of it and it will be flat enough to use as a reference flat
(generations of michinists did just that and it worked fine for 'em.)
Machines easily. Tapped holes are done about the same as tapped holes in
concrete. Drill a hole, install insert. Impractical though from a strength
standpoint. To brittle if thin enough for a table saw top.
full manufactured cost for a cast iron table about $.60/lb which makes
a table for a 10" saw about $11/sq. ft. I doubt seriously if you can
take a slab of granite, machine an insert opening, miter slots, bore
holes and set inserts for cabinet attachment holes, guide rail
attachment holes and even come close to that cost.
And you're right, way too brittle.
No, but I know if you try to put a new material on a table saw and it
adds $50 bucks to the base cost as a granite table more than likely
would then mark it up with manufacturers and dealers margin the market
would consider that unreasonable and wouldn't pay it.
I mounted a piece of rock maple to the face of my fence, and I'm very
pleased with it. HOWEVER, after four years of moderate use, (i.e. sliding
pieces of wood along the fence), there is a perceptible grove in the fence.
It can be replaced very easily, and at a very reasonable price. I would not
appreciate trying to replace the entire table top, even if it had been
coated with Formica, after a rather short period of time (relatively
speaking compared to cast iron), it would have to be replaced in total.
Besides, oak splits, splinters, and wears much faster than iron, and
requires as much or more attention than any cast iron table top,
besides.......Iron does not expand or contract with changes in humidity, and
it's expansion rate is considerably less than any wood, with the changes in
I have some saw horses made out of some polymers, and they are outstanding,
strong, stable, relatively light, but even they show wear from wood sliding
across the surface.
I'll have to stick with cast iron. And Johnson's paste wax. Besides, I
like the stability that comes from the weight of the cast iron
How about plating the cast iron? A good layer of copper/nickle and a
flash of chrome should protect it nicely and look good for those that
like the shiny chrome look (personally I don't). Skip the chrome flash
and bead blast the CI before plating to get a nice satin look. The
nickle plate would be pretty hard so it should last a long time. A
thick plating of hard chrome would be even more wear resistant. Good
metalworking machines have hard chrome on wear points for long wear.
Rusting should not be a problem with plating.
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