Building a shop

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A Murphy bed for when the wife is pissed because you spend all your time out in your shop instead of where you should be, with her doing what ever the hell it is she wants you to do with her at that moment in time.... oops sorry I might have some issues. ;-)
KY
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"Nick" <junkmail snipped-for-privacy@mail.com> wrote in message
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Jelly?
<g>
-- Mark
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On 25 Jan 2004 14:10:23 -0800, junkmail snipped-for-privacy@mail.com (Nick) wrote:

Rather than sheetrock, consider using 3/4 particle board. Costs more, but allows you to nail shelving, fixtures, whatever, wherever you want.
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Lots of good advice here. I'll add:
Take digital photos of all the walls right before the sheetrock goes up. It's really useful to be able to not only see where the studs are, but where the wires and any other in wall stuff goes at a later time.
And put in more receptacles then you ever thought you'll need. I put in lots and still wish I had more.
Jim
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On 25 Jan 2004 22:42:20 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@indra.com (Jim Campbell) wrote:

I knew I'd lose the photos or trash the hard drive eventually so when I mudded the drywall on the ceiling, I avoided going over the screws a second time after the first coat dried and those little depressions formed.
Now, even with paint, I can see the little dimples, and _know_ just where the ceiling joists are. It made hanging the light fixtures a _lot_ easier.
Michael Translation: " I hate drywall mudding, got lazy, and am reaping a really lucky benefit from it. :) "
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Insulate between studs Seal interface between studs and concrete block with RTV
MARK THE STUD LOCATIONS ON THE GARAGE FLOOR!!! MARK THE STUD LOCATIONS ON THE GARAGE CEILING!!!
If you've run power inside the wall, put those anti-screw plates up
Once you have sheetrock up with a few screws, draw line between the ceiling mark and the floor mark so you know where to put rest of screws... Paint walls and ceiling flat white and add four or six electronic ballast shop lights ( eight foot long ones ). Use conduit for surface mount power distribution. DON'T USE THE CONDUIT AS A GROUND; RUN A GROUND WIRE TOO. Don't run romex where it could be wacked by a flying board or otherwise damaged. I also put those plastic tubes over the fluorescent bulbs to prevent breakage (or minimize flying glass).
A hundred amp breaker panel with breakers is available at the BORG for less than $100. Use 20 amp 120V sockets and #12 wire, 30 amp 240V sockets and #10 wire. Run the lights from somewhere else, not on this panel. Reason - you always want to be able to turn on the lights, but may want to lock out the entire power tool supply if you have kids. I am installing a single twist-lock socket on the switched light circuit to power a shop dust filter. I need/want the air filter to go on with the lights but the twist-lock socket keeps unauthorized use to a minimum.
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Thanks for all the advice.
Nick
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