Blade flex (revisited), cleaning

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wrote:

If it cuts okay with the blade plumb, your trunnions need shimming.
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Brilliant!!! Aligned well to the fence at 90 to the table and out of alignment when healed over to 45. Yup, you saw guts are all catywampus. Why didn't I think of that. Also explains the "wavy" cut because it keeps trying to cut along a path but wedges into the fence and gets forced out, then starts again, etc.
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If it cuts okay with the blade plumb, your trunnions need shimming.
****************** You're wasting your time. I suggested this back on 31 Dec in a response to the original post and included a link to a site with details on why and how to fix. Apparently it fell on deaf ears. Art
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I took a look at it. No apparent problem with what you suggest on my TS.
Peetie
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wrote:

What do you mean by apparent? Did you actually measure it? You didn't want to buy the sites jig, I didn't either, and I suggested you make your own as it is easy to do. All of your symptoms point to this alignment issue with the saw. Art
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On Wed, 18 Jan 2012 15:31:41 -0800, Artemus wrote:

Isn't the OP the same poster who said he had no significant blade runout but couldn't quantify it? Some people won't take advice.
I have a suspicion he's trolling.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

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wrote:

If only one side of the kerf is scorching with the blade tilted, that's a dead giveaway. If both sides, clean the blade, sharpen it, or replace it.
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wrote:

One more possibility -- right or left tilt saw? Which side of the blade are you using the fence on?
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