Resilient channel can be very effective, IF installed properly (not
difficult but there is definitely a right way and several wrong ways). Do
some Internet searching on installation techniques. Here are a couple of
links to get started.
You will also want to learn about 'acoustic sealant' and the various types
of expanding foams available in aerosol cans for sealing ALL joints, cracks,
utility perforations, etc. Connecting doors must be weatherstripped, sill
seal must be effective. Read up also about how to deal with 'flanking
noise'. You have received some suggestions about how to decouple the floor
slab, should it prove necessary (you may want to get on-site professional
advice here to avoid cutting utilities or compromising structural
integrity). Similar concerns may also pertain to vibrations transmitted
from the shop ceiling and exterior walls through their structural
connections to the house.
There aren't a whole lot of continuous loud high-frequency metal shop
sounds, just the occasional angle grinder and shop vac. Not like a
Anyway it takes only another inch to make a staggerred double wall.
Fir out the top and bottom plates an inch, then build another 2x4 wall
with studs at the halfway spacing an inch out from the existing
drywall, and hang the new drywall from that.
Anyway if you need to hang stuff on the wall, make a plywood sandwich.
Sheath the wall with plywood or OSB, then drywall over that.
I worked at a construction site for a x-ray lab. On the walls they used what
looked like plain old sheet rock, but it had a layer of lead sheet under the
paper on one face. It probably would be wonderful stuff for noise too. The
gent installing it said it was spendy!
On Mon, 15 Sep 2003 18:49:31 GMT, "Michael Daly"
|> Years ago, when we built an anechoic chamber for testing acoustic stuff in we|> used alternating stud walls with a lead curtain "woven" through them.|
|I remember seeing a demonstration of the effectiveness of this many years ago.
|I keep wondering if there's another good substitute that is perceived safer.
|Aluminum foil is too light. Steel too stiff and springy (you don't want it to
|Lead was perfect in that it was heavy and really damped out vibration since it
|wasn't very elastic.
|Metal coated with plastic? Like old toothpaste tubes (aluminum, not the
|lead ones). That would seem about right. Does such a thing exist?
Should be some one the Middle East surplus market by now.
Rex in Fort Worth
He's got it right!!!! Many years ago my parents bought a building and
converted it to art and music lesson studios. I was asked about
designing walls to separate practise rooms. Imagine one student
practising trumpet in one room and another doing harp in the adjacent
room. I came up with the same thing Peter suggested except that the 2x6
bottom and top plates were separated from floor and ceiling by a layer
of acoustic board and secured with as few nails as practical. The
insulation was just the usual "pink" but the acoustic blanket would
probably be better. It worked well. We never got a complaint.
All good suggestions from Peter. Concrete block works very well. To add to
an existing wall, apply sound board (Homosote) and 5/8" drywall, one or two
layers. Resilient furring channel can be used. Use acoustic caulk at all the
cracks, sound seals at the doors. I used to have a book published by US
Gypsum, a drywall maker that spec'd various wall constructions for sound
walls among others. A Google search might turn up something. I built a 12
screen movie theater that used double studs, Fiberglas sound batts and three
layers of 5/8" rock on each side and one layer in the middle to isolate the
theaters. That worked real well. It all depends on budget and available
Prior to drywalling - fill the cavity with a dense insulation.
Double wall with drywall. You need and want as much sound deadening mass
between your noise source and where it will travel. This will also provide
you a 2 hour rated fire rating.
If you can, build a second wall and hang cabinetes on it. Have a
second door, so you open one door and are in a very short hall with
maybe closets on each side. If your hot water heater is next to the
wall you want to sound proof, enclose it. Use solid core doors with
Just more ideas for consideration.
have an opinion for the best wall treatment to deaden sound travel
I was a contractor, and faced exactly this problem for a client. The client
wanted an effective but inexpensive solution that didn't take a lot of
interior space. My solution was the following, which the client found
1) I first sealed the old wall to avoid any air exchange that would transmit
sound. I also went into the shopside ceiling and heavily blocked and sealed
the space between joists.
2) Then I built a new studwall by turning the studs sideways and using a 2x2
for sill and plate. I firmly attached this to floor and ceiling, but floated
it away from the old wall by about 1/2" without attachment. I filled this
new wall space with thin unbacked insulation until it was well-packed.
3) To the new wall, I glued and screwed 2 layers of 5/8" gypsum wallboard
without furring strips between.
The result was inexpensive and was very effective. No structural
modifications were necessary, and the loss of floorspace in the shop was
Post-script: The client had bolted his mill and lathe to the floor, but
found that he had to put them on laminated wood platforms overlaying rubber
pads to avoid sound transmission directly through the concrete floor to the
rest of the house.
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