There are a couple of different ways:
1. Use a non permanent glue. There are some sprays you can get that will
be non-permanent if you spray one surface, or permanent if you spray both
2. try a glue that can be released by heat
3. use double sided adhesive sheets
4. just sit it there, retained by border edging.
5. use countersunk brass screws.
6. Apply the masonite to both sides of the bench top, then you can flip
it to get a good surface quickly.
place. If you size the top accurately the edge will hold it firmly in place
without it slopping around.
2. Alternatively, try some carpet tape in a few spots between the hardboard
and chipboard surfaces.
Glenn's method is the most elegant, IMHO. Be sure to let the hardboard
acclimate to the shop before you cut it to size, (at least a day) if you
want a close fit to the raised edges. I built my bench using hardwood
edges and then cut the masonite to fit exactly. It lays flat (1/4"
thick) and looks fine. If I eventually ruin it all I have to do is lift
it up and cut and install a new piece.
Mine is secured with screws countersunk into the masonite. Don't use glue
or you may have trouble peeling the masonite off to replace it if it gets
too marked up. For the same reason you probably want to restrict the number
of screws you use to the bare minimum as well. My workbench top has been in
place since 1989 using only 6 or 8 screws and is still going strong. Well,
it is a little ugly. ;0) Wax the masonite with paste wax when you are
done. It will keep you from ruining the top when you spill your coffee on
it. DAMHIKT Also, it protects the top from finishes, glue and other stuff
that gets spilled occasionally. When the top gets ugly, a sanding with fine
sandpaper and some more wax will keep it in good shape.
I use Norm's detail which is a 1x trim around the whole top, mitered at
the corners and flush with the top surface of the Masonite. The Masonite
just sits in there until you need to replace it.
Howard Ruttan wrote:
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