Bench top sacrificial layer

What is a good way to fix a 1/4" masonite hardboard sacrifical top to a double chipboard workbench top? Thanks, Ken
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There are a couple of different ways:
1. Use a non permanent glue. There are some sprays you can get that will be non-permanent if you spray one surface, or permanent if you spray both surfaces.
2. try a glue that can be released by heat
3. use double sided adhesive sheets
4. just sit it there, retained by border edging.
5. use countersunk brass screws.
6. Apply the masonite to both sides of the bench top, then you can flip it to get a good surface quickly.
Greg

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place. If you size the top accurately the edge will hold it firmly in place without it slopping around.
2. Alternatively, try some carpet tape in a few spots between the hardboard and chipboard surfaces.
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wrote:

Not much can stick to chipboard as it is very rough. One screw in each corner should be enough.
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Glenn's method is the most elegant, IMHO. Be sure to let the hardboard acclimate to the shop before you cut it to size, (at least a day) if you want a close fit to the raised edges. I built my bench using hardwood edges and then cut the masonite to fit exactly. It lays flat (1/4" thick) and looks fine. If I eventually ruin it all I have to do is lift it up and cut and install a new piece.
dave
kc wrote:

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"kc" wrote ...

Mine is secured with screws countersunk into the masonite. Don't use glue or you may have trouble peeling the masonite off to replace it if it gets too marked up. For the same reason you probably want to restrict the number of screws you use to the bare minimum as well. My workbench top has been in place since 1989 using only 6 or 8 screws and is still going strong. Well, it is a little ugly. ;0) Wax the masonite with paste wax when you are done. It will keep you from ruining the top when you spill your coffee on it. DAMHIKT Also, it protects the top from finishes, glue and other stuff that gets spilled occasionally. When the top gets ugly, a sanding with fine sandpaper and some more wax will keep it in good shape.
--
Cheers,
Howard
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I use Norm's detail which is a 1x trim around the whole top, mitered at the corners and flush with the top surface of the Masonite. The Masonite just sits in there until you need to replace it.
Howard Ruttan wrote:

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