Apply poly to drawer slides?

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I've built a chest of drawers, and am almost to the finishing stages. The drawer sides are also the points at which the drawers slide, and I was wondering if I should apply polyurethane to the sides and then a coat of wax. The top part of the drawer side may be exposed, but the bottom part would not.
Is it worth my time to apply poly to the sides, or would just plain paste wax be fine?
Puckdropper
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Puckdropper wrote:

I'd go with just wax.
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I vote just wax, also. I use Tre-Wax for that type of raw wood application.
Sonny
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Looks like I'll be going with just wax. I've had good results with just wax in smaller drawers (they only support up to a pound), but was wondering if poly+wax would make a definite quality difference. I've got to do the rest of the piece, so the additional cost is fairly low.
Puckdropper
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On 23 Apr 2010 15:12:43 GMT, the infamous Puckdropper

Polyurinestain is not a lube.
Waxes are.
Waxes will soak into the pores of the wood (only if -not- choked with poly) and provide continued slickness even after the original coating is rubbed off.
Any questions?
-- ...in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work. -- John Ruskin
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Larry Jaques wrote:

I like lacquer on wooden drawer slides. It drys fast and fills the pores just fine, better than wax. Spray or paint on some lacquer and sand it off with a fine grit paper. The pores will be filled and the wood smooth and slick. Lacquer is far more durable than wax, but you can wax over it if you feel the need.
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On 23 Apr 2010 09:13:32 GMT, the infamous Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> scrawled the following:>I've built a chest of drawers, and am almost to the finishing stages. The

I prefer to wax the outside of drawer sides. If the slides are wooden built-ins, I also use paraffin wax as a lube.
------------------------------------------- Stain and Poly are their own punishment
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Waxing the outside of drawer sides is an excellent idea. They'll wind up being a bearing surface as much as the bottom.
Just wait until you get to paints. Some of them are worse than polyurethane ever thought of being!
Puckdropper
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On 23 Apr 2010 15:08:56 GMT, the infamous Puckdropper

Yeah, how many people do you know who push exactly on the center of a drawer to close it? <g>

Uh, please 'splain this to me.
-- ...in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work. -- John Ruskin
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*trim and snip*

I got some Rustoleum external door paint. That stuff is nasty. The smell is horrid, and the off gassing chemicals gave me a headache. That's after using it in a reasonably well ventilated area (garshop with the windows open) and only applying a little bit.
The poly doesn't smell too bad, and can stand being applied in the garage with the windows open. Some of the smell can be killed by lighting a candle (but not too close to the work area!)
I'll open and use the poly again, but not the paint.
Puckdropper
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I've always thought a reasonable quality of secondary wood, for drawer sides, back & bottoms, is not going to warp or check because of exposure over a long period of time. If the wood is of poor grade, then the individual pieces, that small (dimensions), may develope problems for drawer function.
I've always thought the simplest, easiest, least expensive, essentially universal, time tested, best fix for lubricating wood-on- wood is wax. To me, to ponder the issue, for another fix, is an exercise in an attempt at overkill, which probably won't work as efficiently as wax, anyway. What I have considered is 'what is the best wax to use'.
I don't recommend using a melted, scented candle wax that has re- solidified. For some reason, it seems to be different than the original chemistry and results in a chalk type application, rather than a smooth, waxy application. Maybe it's the scent ingredient that makes for this chalk effect.
Additional to the lubrication issue: I don't use paint or poly on the insides of drawers, but I do spray lacquer.... quick, easy, cures fast and basically its only function is to give the inside a "finished", esthetically pleasing surface, rather than remaining raw wood.
Sonny
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On 24 Apr 2010 03:06:06 GMT, the infamous Puckdropper

When I was painting the interior of the back house my client and I are fixing up, he was painting the trim with Rustoleum. Talk about solvent fumes! That stuff really is nasty. The tenants moved in 6 weeks later and the place still reeked of the Rustoleum.

Right. Can you say <BABOOM!> ? I knew you could. 'Course, a candle next to the Rustoleum might do it some good. Burn out the odor, wot?

Gotcha, but why use either? (rhetorical question) </anti-poly rant>
-- ...in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work. -- John Ruskin
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"Puckdropper" wrote:

---------------------------------------------
Have you considered?
http://tinyurl.com/23gf5vo
SFWIW, I recently also built a chest of drawers.
Sealed ALL interior surfaces with a coat of 1/2 lb shellac.
YMMV.
Lew
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I had not considered anything like that. I'd probably need at least two rolls of it, if not 3. Kinda expensive compared to just paste wax. The drawers are intended mainly for storage and not frequent opening and closing.
Thanks for the suggestion, though.
FWIW, shellac wouldn't work well here. The drawers will go under a model railroad where alcohol is used for cleaning and as a wetting agent.
Puckdropper
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Not sure I fully understand but a common rule of film finishes is to cover all surfaces equally so moisture absorbtion and experation are equal at all sides to avoid cupping.
So if the insides of the drawers have a poly finish, then the outside should also.
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Wax is a waste of time as a protectant. If you are going to wax, just brush it off and be done.

BINGO!! The bells are ringing!! We have a winner, folks.
That couldn't be more spot on.
Robert
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On Fri, 23 Apr 2010 09:30:58 -0700 (PDT), the infamous
following:

I thought he was wanting a lube.

Ah, but that's only half the battle.
Robert, you forgot to tell him that finishing the inside of drawers is NOT standard practice and is usually a bad idea due to the finish's horrible odors and invariable stickiness.
Wax on the outside is not a film finish and does work as a lube. Ask any wooddorker for the past 400 years. ;)
Did I ever tell you about my trip to an Etherized Allen showroom ca 2000? I saw a nice little $2,850 (um, what was that thing?) Federal highboy. When I opened the center drawer, it no only stuck, it chattered loudly enough that every eye in the place, both store workers and browsers, was on me. I laughed, shook my head in disgust, and closed it with nearly the same noise. Several of the drawers were like that. A little bit of paraffin would have sold that thing to the few interested people, but since they hadn't bothered, it chattered loudly. Before going into that store, I had admired the name. Now I know better. In other pieces, drawers had half an inch of side slop. Dovies were all machine cut. I suspect now that the pieces I saw were early ChiwanIndPakiese imports. You'd have to ask M. Farooq Kathwari, the CEO, about that. ;)
P.S: The EA store didn't impress me after all.
-- ...in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work. -- John Ruskin
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Aw, Larry, you've destroyed a favorite myth of mine. I had been using: http://tinyurl.com/2eud54s
Sabes que? It's fast drying, durable and virtually odor free. I like it especially for drawers because of it's ease of use and fast drying and odor free properties. It's also durable. <G>
Max
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On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 11:13:53 -0600, the infamous "Max"

Oh, the "new, improved water-based, oil-modified polyurinestain." That's different. <thud>
OK, so it stinks less. (nasally)
-- ...in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work. -- John Ruskin
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-- John Ruskin
Chistoso!
Should I use spar varnish?
Max
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