Amazing kickback!

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I was cutting some 1/8x1/8 strips. I knew they would kick back pretty good so I got anything breakable out of the way.
One hit the wall 8' back and then bounced 15' nearly hitting the opposite wall. I wonder what kind of velocity is necessary for a trick like that. The other 5 were less dramatic.
Yeh, I know I could have avoided it by cutting them off, rather than cutting them; but the saw was setup perfectly from cutting them to width.
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"Toller" wrote in message

Not kick back, but a similar incident on the SCMS yesterday cutting triangular shaped 1/8" paduak wood for accent. One piece shattered, sending slivers around the shop like shrapnel ... one 3" sliver speared me in the bottom lip and I had to pull it out. It would have gone right through an eyeball
... "and there is no more important safety device than these, safety glasses."
Take Norm's advice to heart.
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One of those faceshields turners use is also very useful. I sure like mine.
It's getting darn near like wearing one of those level 4 biohazard suits to go safely into the wood shop. Kevlar apron, safety glasses, hearing protection, face shield & dustfoe. Not to mention dust collector and sawstop.
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I don't get it. Why did you even attempt the cut? There are ways to handle this but not very common.
Bob
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With a proper push block, you could have cut them all day long with no hint of a problem. You know something's not going to work and you do it anyway. Bright.

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kickback seems safer. It worked just fine. I got my 1/8x1/8 pieces, no harm was done, and I got an interesting show.
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Yes, a pushblock. If you know how to make them, they keep complete control of both pieces. Kickbacks don't always go were you think they will. You'd look kind of funny with a piece of wood sticking out of your neck.

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Toller wrote:

Yep. The main body lays flat on the table. Make it about 8" wide and decently long with a handle in the middle.
Cut a bit less than 1/8" off one edge, but leave a bit of a tail on it to hold the stock.
Chris
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I have a push block in the shop that will work just fine for cuts of this sort. My shop teacher made it for me back in high school when he caught me doing cuts much like you were. He made me carry it with me every day for the rest of the term so I wouldn't forget how to cut things. It's been almost 30 years so far, and I haven't forgot yet, so it must have worked.
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"Toller" wrote in message:

a push block would be better than nothing and it should be adequate, but.......
I don't use push blocks, but rather a stick (round or square, about 1"x1") with a nail in the end works better than anything on the planet. Drive a #6 or #8 casing nail into one end and sharpen the nail with a grinder or file. About 1" should be sticking out. This will give you control to push the workpiece toward the fence and away. Any small hole made by the device will be unnoticeable and can be easily filled if desired. Also it is good to taper the end where the nail is, a little bit.
For those who would like to flame me, that's cool. But try it first.
woodstuff "have a nice day"
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"woodstuff" wrote in message

No thanks ... last thing I want anywhere near my expensive blades is a nail.
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"Swingman wrote in message:

All I can say is that you gotta try it. I never have hit the blade, and my blades are not cheapos.
woodstuff "have a nice day"
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And it still leaves the piece free to fly if it's going to.

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wrote:

I dip the ends of pushblocks in a "non-slip" paint intended for marine applications. It's cheap and gives a better grip than wood-wood.
Barry Lennox
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Barry Lennox wrote in message:

Barry Lennox wrote in message:

This is a good point, Barry. I never tried that when I used push blocks. Push blocks are adequate and I am not running them down, and I used them for over two decades. My point is that I found a better way for me.
woodstuff "have a nice day"
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Cutting something knowing it will kick back is just not smart. You really should find a way to cut that eliminates or at least significantly reduces the chance for kickback. Not sure if you were using a table saw but if it was set up correctly, you shouldn't have this problem. Cheers, cc
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I will take issue with Norm's dictum about the most important safety device. It is the stuff between your ears......your brain. If the cut seems a little scary, it probably is!
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Dave W wrote:

beer before, or during a WW session.
Dave
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"Dave W" wrote in message

If you have a brain, you follow Norm's "dictum".
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Lots of comments on the OP's technique so far, but no one answered the question.... LOL.
The answer is (suprisingly) not that much velocity. Depending on what type of strip it was (bendable and heavy is better, hickory better than balsa :) ), and what type of wall it was (stiff is better), the collision of strip to wall was very close to perfectly elastic. In english, this means the strip bounded back with only slightly less velocity than what it came in at. And it would not take much velocity to send a strip as described back across a 15ft shop (way under 50 feet per second or 30 miles per hour) -- durn near anyone could throw something like this WAY more that 15'.
So if it came off the saw at 60 miles per hour, this could easily happen. You don't need gunshot velocity or anything even close. Just suicidal tendancies...
Try this sometime -- get a 1/4" dowel 3' long and bounce it on a concrete floor. It bounces quite nicely, and can be pretty fun to try to get a straight bounce.
Matthew (who is always fascinated by crap like this)

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