Advice on HVLP

Page 1 of 2  
Hi,
Can you give me some advice on perchasing a good quality home user for a compressor based HVLP spray gun, it won't be (at least for near future) be an every day use.
The usage for it would be painting lacquer primarily, kitchen cabinet doors, drawers, home made speakers etc.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I like the Porter Cable (Devilbis) PSH1. You can get different tips for it but the tip that comes with (1.5) works for the better qulaity waterborne paints Target PSL my choise). In my thinking, gravity feed is easier and better for most of what I do. It uses less air pressure and all the pressure goes into the atomiszation f the paint.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I've been happy with my Apollo. I've only had it for a couple of months and have yet to spray any woodworking finish, hahahaha. But I've used it on some very thick anti graffiti paint, water based primer and enamel trim paint for the house and it's been great. Mine is turbine based but the conversion guns work pretty much the same, just different in how they get the air ready.
The important thing I'd look for is an all metal gun, (easier to clean), a wide variety of tips and needles, and the ability to use small cups. I like the ability to have a small cup that is dedicated to a finish. I got this idea from a buddy who make crafts and toys. He leaves a cup set with Waterlox, ready to go at any time. When he's not using it, the lid goes on the cup and it's sealed till next time. This saves cleaning the big cup after every coat and wasting a lot of finish in cleaning the cup.
Bernie

doors,
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

The same storage/cleaning concept has me looking at this: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page 048&category=1,190,43034
If it were not Lee Valley, I might well pass as being unlikely to work well. But, it is LV. - Igor
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Did you test it?
Or know someone used it, what about over spray?
Thanks

and
some
for
guns
a
like
on
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page 048&category1,190,43034

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
No. I have no idea. I suppose I should start a thread on it.
On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 22:58:27 -0400, "Yves"

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
It works fine....
BUT it is NOT a big league HIGH VOLUME spray gun.
It's more of "air brush" kinda of gun. It does work quite well for what it is.
It will in fact shoot paint,stain,varnish,etc,etc.
It will do it VERY slowly but for smaller stuff, it works great.
It's great to shoot enamel paint for equipment.
igor wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Don't forget about the 30 second clean-up. The critter rules!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Oh yeah...
Unscrew jar from sprayer and put lid on jar... That's the "clean up"...
Jay wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The item listed in the Lee Valley catalog is actually "The Critter", see:
http://users.imag.net/~lon.critterspray /
I have it, and it is very handy because it is so easy to set up and clean up. But, I haven't tried to use it for any fine finishing work, just to spray sealant on outdoor cedar arbor and fence, and Adirondack chairs.
Has a small fan pattern, and limited adjustability.
I don't think it would be very good for furniture/cabinet finishing.
On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 22:58:27 -0400, "Yves"

<big snip>

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wgoffeney/Woodworking/Woodworking.htm
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
What about for painting trim and for cut-in in corners before painting a room w/ a roller? If not, suggestions?
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Purdy 3" sash brush. A tiny little sprayer for that would be ridiculous.
-Jack
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

True. But (I did not mention this so you could not know) I am thinking of 1x6 base moulding plus an OG cap. I agree, if just for cut-in, a bursh is best - but if I had the sprayer set up ... Thanks.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I haven't much experience with spray finishes. I don't think I would want to use the Critter, or any other conventional spray gun for interior work. The overspray would be a real pain. I don't know about HVLP since I haven't used it yet.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wgoffeney/Woodworking/Woodworking.htm
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
That's what I wanted to know. Thanks.
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Big difference between conventional spraying and HVLP. HVLP has virtually no overspray. Have you seen the guys at trade shows spraying black paint onto a pad of paper with no overspray on teh floor below them. I used my Apollo to so some very involved moldings that would have been a pain to paint with a brush. I used 9" masking paper and painters tape to issolate the areas to paint, put a drop cloth on the floor incase I dropped the gun and didn't even use a mask for part of it. I was spraying regular oil based enamal thined with mineral spirits. The finish was incretable compared to brushing. No marks and paint in all the cracks and crannies. With an HVLP gun, the air supply is constant, you adjust the amount of material you are spraying. You can put it on thin or thick or anywhere in between. An you don't waste a lot of extra coating by blowing it into the air as overspray.
I don't think I would want to paint walls with it, but I could. I have 4 rooms with 5" crowns, high bases and big stacks of casings that I will definates tape and spray. It's an added benefit that spraying takes less time. The bathroom I just finished has ornate casings around the window and door. It took no more than 5 minutes to paint both by spraying.
I have no concerns about using HVLP inside. The coatings go where you put them, not into the air as overspray!
Bernie

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bernie Hunt wrote:

Would you mind elaborating on the "paint walls with it" comment? I'm planning on doing my whole garage with one... an Apollo conversion gun with a 2.5 gallon pressure pot. Have I made a terrible mistake?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Ed,
You have the piece I don't, a pressure pot. I just have the quart cup and the smaller probably cup sized container. Figuring with the thining and all, it would take me probably 6 refills to spray a gallon of paint. Actually, now you've got me thinking. Maybe it wouldn't be that bad to shoot, refill, shoot refill, etc. With your pressure pot, you'll be in great shape. Figure on a large nossle and use flotrol. Let me know how it comes out. Mybe I will use it for the walls downstairs.
Bernie

and
planning
gallon
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Ed Clarke wrote:

I have a conversion gun, which I am sure is slower than your Apollo, and painted the ceilings of five rooms and a hall (all with popcorn ceilings). My gun was quite a bit slower than a regular gun but of course the overspray (really the floating aerosol of paint) was practically zero compared to the regular gun.
So the answer is, no you didn't make a terrible mistake, but it may take you 2-3 times as long as using a regular gun. You will get better coverage, may get a better surface, and will certainly have less overspray.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hi,
Thanks all for the advices,
Can you give me advice on the proportion normally used to "thin" oil paint or lacquer, or is it just try an error?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

Related Threads

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.