Can you give me some advice on perchasing a good quality home user for a compressor based HVLP spray gun, it won't be (at least for near future) be an every day use.
The usage for it would be painting lacquer primarily, kitchen cabinet doors, drawers, home made speakers etc.
I like the Porter Cable (Devilbis) PSH1. You can get different tips for it but the tip that comes with (1.5) works for the better qulaity waterborne paints Target PSL my choise). In my thinking, gravity feed is easier and better for most of what I do. It uses less air pressure and all the pressure goes into the atomiszation f the paint.
I've been happy with my Apollo. I've only had it for a couple of months and have yet to spray any woodworking finish, hahahaha. But I've used it on some very thick anti graffiti paint, water based primer and enamel trim paint for the house and it's been great. Mine is turbine based but the conversion guns work pretty much the same, just different in how they get the air ready.
The important thing I'd look for is an all metal gun, (easier to clean), a wide variety of tips and needles, and the ability to use small cups. I like the ability to have a small cup that is dedicated to a finish. I got this idea from a buddy who make crafts and toys. He leaves a cup set with Waterlox, ready to go at any time. When he's not using it, the lid goes on the cup and it's sealed till next time. This saves cleaning the big cup after every coat and wasting a lot of finish in cleaning the cup.
The item listed in the Lee Valley catalog is actually "The Critter", see:
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have it, and it is very handy because it is so easy to set up and clean up. But, I haven't tried to use it for any fine finishing work, just to spray sealant on outdoor cedar arbor and fence, and Adirondack chairs.
Has a small fan pattern, and limited adjustability.
I don't think it would be very good for furniture/cabinet finishing.
Big difference between conventional spraying and HVLP. HVLP has virtually no overspray. Have you seen the guys at trade shows spraying black paint onto a pad of paper with no overspray on teh floor below them. I used my Apollo to so some very involved moldings that would have been a pain to paint with a brush. I used 9" masking paper and painters tape to issolate the areas to paint, put a drop cloth on the floor incase I dropped the gun and didn't even use a mask for part of it. I was spraying regular oil based enamal thined with mineral spirits. The finish was incretable compared to brushing. No marks and paint in all the cracks and crannies. With an HVLP gun, the air supply is constant, you adjust the amount of material you are spraying. You can put it on thin or thick or anywhere in between. An you don't waste a lot of extra coating by blowing it into the air as overspray.
I don't think I would want to paint walls with it, but I could. I have 4 rooms with 5" crowns, high bases and big stacks of casings that I will definates tape and spray. It's an added benefit that spraying takes less time. The bathroom I just finished has ornate casings around the window and door. It took no more than 5 minutes to paint both by spraying.
I have no concerns about using HVLP inside. The coatings go where you put them, not into the air as overspray!
Would you mind elaborating on the "paint walls with it" comment? I'm planning on doing my whole garage with one... an Apollo conversion gun with a 2.5 gallon pressure pot. Have I made a terrible mistake?
You have the piece I don't, a pressure pot. I just have the quart cup and the smaller probably cup sized container. Figuring with the thining and all, it would take me probably 6 refills to spray a gallon of paint. Actually, now you've got me thinking. Maybe it wouldn't be that bad to shoot, refill, shoot refill, etc. With your pressure pot, you'll be in great shape. Figure on a large nossle and use flotrol. Let me know how it comes out. Mybe I will use it for the walls downstairs.
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