Adhesive for Plexiglas to wood

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"Lee Michaels" wrote:

-------------------------------------------
Yep.
Oh well google "testors plastic cement".
Somebody still sells it.
Lew
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Check walthers.com They not only have a hobby shop locator, but a huge catalog their dealers can order from. There's usually no extra charge for shipping, but it does take a few days depending on the shop.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

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On 3/1/2013 10:48 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:

towerhobbies.com
Been doing business with them for many years.
http://tinyurl.com/becy5oo
Max
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"MaxD" wrote:

------------------------------------------------ Looks like an RC unit.
RC was just starting when I got out.
During those years it was either U-Control or free flight, 1/2 A (0.049 cubic inch) max for power.
Didn't have to chase it so far to retrieve it.
Used a fuse to activate de-thermalizer.
What engine do you have in it?
Lew
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On 3/2/2013 4:58 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Ask around for fuse these days and see who comes to visit!
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"Richard" wrote:

---------------------------------------------------------------- Back then, you made your own fuses.
As a pimple faced kid, got some funny looks when I asked the druggest for salt-peter the first time.<G>
Druggist knew my dad.
No problem getting mason's twine.<G>
Lsw
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On 3/2/2013 3:58 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Had to think about that for awhile. It's been quite a few years. I believe that plane had a K&B .40 Futaba radio.
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

------------------------------------------------------ "MaxD" wrote:

------------------------------------------------------ Looks like some things have stood the test of time.
K&B was a major engine supplier after WWII.
How many channels on the radio?
Lew
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On 3/3/2013 8:30 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Six. We have an RC group here, "EL Paso Radio Controllers". Several of the members were ex RCAT fliers for target practice at Fort Bliss. They were really good. There was a guy who used to stop by every now and then whose name You might remember, Frank Borman. He owns a big auto dealership in Las Cruces, NM (35 miles N. of El Paso)
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I'd say Acrylic itself. Just like welding two slabs together.
Martin
On 2/27/2013 6:34 PM, MaxD wrote:

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On 2/27/2013 5:34 PM, MaxD wrote:

silicone.
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On 2/28/2013 7:34 AM, chaniarts wrote:

Well, I was planning on using silicone to seal any openings that need it. So...
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On 02/28/2013 07:21 PM, MaxD wrote:

Looks like simple screws through the plexi/acrylic into the wood. If the plexi/acrylic is shaped properly to match the curvature of the wood sides, screws should be all that is required. There wouldn't be enough air leakage to make a difference. Most of the leakage will come through the bottom which rides on the work piece.
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h

Pan head screws. Flat heads will split acrylic like wedges.
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On 3/1/2013 5:57 PM, Father Haskell wrote:

Yep, and thanks
Max
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On 2/28/2013 8:21 PM, MaxD wrote:

May I try to talk you out of that?
Silicone tends to "poison" the surface of anything that it is used on. Nothing else will ever stick to it again. If repairs are ever needed that could cause all manner of problems.
Use 5200 as the adhesive, and as the seal.
Good stuff, Maynard.
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On 2/28/2013 11:08 PM, Richard wrote:

Thanks, Richard. I'm getting more votes for the 5200. ;-)
Max
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"MaxD" wrote in message
What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to plywood?(Baltic Birch) I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else? TIA.
----------------------------------------------------
3M 5200
HD should have it.
Lew
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