Accuracy of Compound Mitre Saws

Accuracy is dependant on how often and how carefully you change the settings. You want day in and day out accuracy buy a table saw sled and one of these.

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Reply to
SamintheShop
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I have my doubts as to whether "absolute accuracy" is obtainable, or even necessary, with wood and woodworking machinery.

My Makita LS1013 is certainly accurate enough for trim work. Consider that theoretically there should be less flex and runout at the edge of a 10" blade, then with a 12" blade.

For "accurate" miters in fine furniture, I use a table saw sled (picture on the jigs and fixture page on the site below).

Reply to
Swingman

My Porter Cable 3802L miter saw is dead-on accurate especially for the stopped angles. For non-stopped angles, there can be a little error in your setting of the angle due to parallax, but a couple test cuts and an accurate protractor generally dial it in easily. I use it for furniture miters, and trim miters. Crown moulding compound miters are perfect. The dual lasers on either side of the kerf is GREAT. No complaints what-so-ever.

Brian.

Reply to
Brian

|I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used |almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is |essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some |way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve |absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of |cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to |achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be |gratefully received.

Nothing is absolutely accurate, however, I find my 12" DeWalt (non-sliding) CMS to be adequately accurate and nearly bulletproof.

I've routinely crosscut stock for dovetailed drawers and face frames, which I think is a fair test of whether things are square or not. If there is one occasional downside it is minor chipout on the exit side of the cut.

But this is with the original blade that I have used (and abused) for years. I framed my house addition, cut pvc and abs pipe, aluminum stock and chopped up 2X lumber for firewood that's been laying on the ground for an extended time. And my neighbor built his house addition with it too.

One of these days I'll get it sharpened or buy a better crosscut blade. [g]

Wes

Reply to
Wes

You didn't specify an accuracy level so the answer has to be yes, no, maybe.

Reply to
CW

I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be gratefully received. Gary

Reply to
Gary Dean

Sun, Jul 4, 2004, 5:07pm (EDT+4) snipped-for-privacy@ntlworld.com (Gary=A0Dean) claims: I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw

You didn't mean "sliding", and just left that out, did you?

is it possible to achieve absolute accuracy with a mitre saw

Yes. "Probable" now, is a different mater.

and if so and where, on the scale of cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to achieve the accuracy I am looking for?

Depends. You can get a high price one that is off, or an el cheapo that is right on.

Any recommendations will be gratefully received.

Pick one you like, and can afford, and check it out. Make a saw sled, or several. Their setting shouldn't change.

I've got an older Craftsman manual mitre saw, plenty accurate. Ran me around $20, shipping included, on eBay. Used to have a neighbor, who had a lovely cast iron base manual mitre saw, brand unknown, dead accurate. If I could find one of those for sale, I'd pick it up in a heartbeat.

JOAT Just because it's not nice doesn't mean it's not miraculous.

- Interesting Times

Reply to
J T

Sun, Jul 4, 2004, 4:24pm (EDT+4) snipped-for-privacy@myhouse.com puts out: buy a table saw sled

Buy?

JOAT Just because it's not nice doesn't mean it's not miraculous.

- Interesting Times

Reply to
J T

JOAT, I've seen examples of your woodworking 'skills' and I can't imagine that you would ever need one. Bought or otherwise.

Reply to
SamintheShop

I have the same saw and I made a zero clearance insert and put on a 80 tooth crosscut blade (Freud) and I no longer have the chipout problem you describe.

Glen

Reply to
Glen

I have the same saw and I made a zero clearance insert and put on a 80 tooth crosscut blade (Freud) and I no longer have the chipout problem you describe.

Glen

Reply to
Glen Kraig

I have the same saw and I made a zero clearance insert and put on a 80 tooth crosscut blade (Freud) and I no longer have the chipout problem you describe.

Glen

Reply to
Glen

I have the same saw and I made a zero clearance insert and put on a 80 tooth crosscut blade (Freud) and I no longer have the chipout problem you describe.

Glen

Reply to
Glen

if it isn't a slider you would be fine with something like the Dewalt compound or double compound (not sure that's the correct nomenclature) model. I have the compound one it will hold any setting you throw at it. Set the saw, do a test cut, and if ok, the Dewalt will hold the setting indefinitely. Reading the scale is iffy but with practice you'll be able to tell what it's set at.

dave

Reply to
Bay Area Dave

I have the same saw and added a zero clearance insert and a Freud 80 tooth crosscut blade and the chipout problem was solved.

Glen

Reply to
Glen

Reply to
Glen

I have the same saw, but I added a zero clearance insert and a Freud 80 tooth blade and I no longer have the chipout problem.

Glen

Reply to
Glen

I have the same saw, but I added a zero clearance insert and a Freud 80 tooth blade and I no longer have the chipout problem.

Glen

Reply to
Glen

If absolute accuracy is required, stay away from the Makita 10" sliding compound miter saw. Unless they have changed their design very recently, the pivot pin that goes into the base through the table is a steel pin in the aluminum casting, and it wears the casting hole to an oblong shape. Once that happens, there's no way to fix it (not enough room to put in a bushing, even) and Makita's only suggestion is to keep replacing bases if you care about cut accuracy.

To be fair to the saw, I did build my house using it for all of the hip rafters (2x10 Douglass Fir), so it has some miles on it, but: A) It's only built _one_ house, and B) a design which has such an obvious wear point with no provision for repair, is to be avoided.

Dave Hinz

Reply to
Dave Hinz

Reply to
Phisherman

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