I need to drill 7/32" holes within an eight inch of each other. With my
normal bits Iget splintering in between the holes. A forstner bit would
prevent this but my smallst is 1/4". Does anyone know if 7/32" forstner bits
are available? A google search didn't show any results
Ken Johnsen wrote:
> I need to drill 7/32" holes within an eight inch of each other. With my
> normal bits Iget splintering in between the holes. A forstner bit would
> prevent this but my smallst is 1/4". Does anyone know if 7/32"
> are available? A google search didn't show any results
Have you looked at and/or tested a brad point drill?
What kind of wood is splintering?
Ken Johnsen wrote:
> I am using a brad point. I've been working with cherry.
Couple of thoughts.
Can you turn the piece over and drill adjacent holes from alternate
sides using a backer block?
Make sure drill is VERY sharp so it won't tear.
I'm out of ideas.
Where is the splintering? If it's tearing out on exit, well, a Forstner
bit will do that, too. You have to back it with a sacrificial block or
use a brad point bit and drill just until the point penetrates the
other side, then turn the work over and finish the hole from there. The
backer block is easier.
I don't know of a forstner bit that size.
How about clamping a sacrificial board on top and drilling thru both
at the same time? This way the sacrificial board gets the tear out as
it protects your project board.
"Ken Johnsen" wrote in message ...
but with the dimensions you need. You could then use a plunge router with a
7/32" bit to the drill the actual holes in the cherry. These bits are
available from several sources according to Google and are in the $ 15.00
range. The advantage to the template would include zero clearance for the
holes, reducing splintering.
Ken a couple of suggestions:
1. If the piece your drilling the holes in is not part of something already
and you're milling your lumber - leave it a tad thick, drill the holes, then
plane to desired thickness.
2. Someone suggested tape and that may work but for holes that close
together, I kinda doubt it will be 100%. What I have done is to apply some
finish to the stock (shellac, poly, whatever) to help hold the fibers and
then use a template (3/4" thick board, with hole/s in it clamped tightly to
3. Failing the above - just because the situation won't allow it, try
dampening the wood with a damp sponge of water, or you could use mineral
spirits too. This works when planing wood to reduce tearout due to grain
changes and may work on this.
I see elsewhere you're using a brad point bit.
1. If it's a cheapie from the local Best Buy, get a good one to start
with. (Amana's Timberline is one I've been pleased with).
2. Failing 1), sharpen the one you have.
3. _Then_ the tape trick may help a little but should be unneeded.
Regarding the other question, I think I have seen some Forstner's in
32nds, but don't have a direct source at hand.
Another possiblility would be to use a plunge router and a 2-flute
(again, good quality) router bit.
some real good advice here. Having had the same type problem with "pine"
(white wood from local lumber yard) I have found that the best way to go is
to cut the item over size an then mill to size after the holes are cut.
drill holes at high speed with slow feed to insure as little tear out as
possible. I resharpen my twist bits to a lower angle and that seems to help
also. Brad point bits work well to keep the hole from wandering but mine
seem to dull a lot faster then twist bits and I have more trouble sharpening
Get the best bit you can to drill the holes. Do some trial holes in
Use a sacfifical board as another suggested.
Drill the first hole and fill it with tight fitting dowel. Drill the
second hole. Then punch out the dowel in the first hole.
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