38,88 Cubic Inches

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Yup, lots of storage. I spent the day assembling the 18 drawers today. These drawers will have the Arts and Crafts false fronts attached and will go under our bed, part of the Tower Bedroom Project. I seemed to have had a pretty good routine going and I decided to time myself after the 8th drawer and I was not rushing in any way. #9, 6 min 13 sec. #10 6 min 10 sec #11 6 min 5 sec
And I still don't know what happened on #12, 5 min 36 sec. I gave it a thorough inspection to make sure that I had not left out any brads.
Any way they are constructed from 1/2" Baltic birch and 1/4" birch plywood for the bottoms. Rabbet corner joints, glued, clamped, and braded. Bottoms were dadoed-in about 3/8" from the bottom. Approximately 5" deep inside, 18" side inside and 24" deep inside.
One too many to stack in my shop. ;~)
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On 1/7/2010 7:09 PM, Leon wrote:

Helluva stack ... "Tower Project" is apt!
Call me next time. Didn't go to Austin due to the weather and about the only thing I did in the shop all day was to bring the glue into the house so it wouldn't freeze ... and wrap pipes and hose bibs.
Think I'll call my broker tomorrow and sell some of my Brazillian Carbon Credits.
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"Swingman" wrote:

===============================Old time solution when wrapping pipes may not be possible.
"Crack" a valve open to a fast dribble.
Just enough water flow to prevent freezing.
Lew
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On 1/7/2010 7:44 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Still works ... just left daughters house where I showed her how to leave the cabinet doors open on all sink bases that are on an exterior walls, and how much "dribble" to have on the faucets, particularly the one furthermost from the input from the meter ... compounded by the fact that this house has been remodeled so many times it couldn't find the zipper it it need to take a leak.
I do wrap the hose bibs on her house because they were installed 60 years ago by Yank's who moved down here to build during the 50's and apparently hadn't yet heard of global warming.
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"Swingman" wrote

just a comment about insulating outside faucets. I have put a styrofoam cap over mine for years. But the cheap plastic thread stripped and I had to buy a new one very other year because it wouldn't seal properly. They have a new design, new to this area anyway, that uses an elastic cord to secure the cover to the faucet. Installs in a snap and looks like it will last much longer than the old model.
Also, those covers don't seal well against shingles. So I tacked some closed cell foam around the faucet to give me a flat surface to install the foam cover.
Gotta go chop up some kindling. My honey requires a fire in cold weather. She just never learned the concept of kindling. Which is why I have to keep making more of it. I just finished a couple projects here and elsewhere and have lots of kindling. A totally temporary situation around here.
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"Swingman" wrote:

Sounds like it's time to cut in some shut off valves this spring in all those outdoor water lines.
Problem goes away then as long as you remember to use the valves and drain the lines.
Lew
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On 1/7/2010 9:34 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Not likely ... have better sense than to spend money on a rent house.
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Snip

Tomorrow ... I get to......R O T E X......;~) Itchey trigger finger.... In between taking mom and dad to the clinic.
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Good thing that these drawers fit under the bed. Otherwise, you wouldn't have room to fit them in the bedroom!
Looks good. We all know how excited women get with new drawer or closet space. How is she dealing with the anticipated new drawer capacity?
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On 1/7/2010 8:00 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:

Shhhhh ... apparently Leon has yet to mention the new volume requirement for 'Dirty Underwear Drawers' in the 2010 IRC :)
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Damn, Leon!
You should go into the drawer manufacturing business. Make kind of a "drawers R us" thing.
That's pretty damn fast, especially if that was a cruising speed.
Robert
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The thought has crossed my mind but that was only assembly, I probably spent an equal amount of time cutting and dadoing the pieces.
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wrote in message

After considering the fact that each finished drawer has 12 seperate pieces of wood, 2 for the handles, 5 for the false front, and 5 for the drawer, cutting up and assembling 216 pieces seemed like it might get a bit tedious. And that fact alone almost required me to designate a couple extra as the "DUD's". ;~) Hummm..
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Snip

Let's just say that she is not doing anything to distract me, which may not be a good thing and or explain a few things. ;~)
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I hope you show us "how" you are gonna put all those drawers under that bed.
Leon wrote:

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Seriously?
The drawers will slide on pairs of slide rails that go all the way from one side of the bed storage unit to the other. If you give a drawer a hard enough shove it will go to the other side.
There are 6 openings on each side. 2 tall, 3 wide. From one side to the other I can put 3 drawers in/on each opening and set of slide rails. So to recap, 3 drawers on each set of 6 pairs of slide rails
12 drawers will be visible, 6 on each side, and 6 drawers will hidden in the middle. Those middle drawers will be a bit inconvenient to get to but at least the space is not wasted. Seasonal items can go in there or maybe my dirty underwear. ;~)
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Well, the reason I asked, was that I have a number of beds that could use a similar treatment. Most beds are a little low for drawers, but I have been thinking about even flatter drawers would work for smaller items.
That will need to be a pretty large frame rail for the drawers, so are you gonna assemble in the room or make it up and then slide in under the bed ?
That's what I want to see a picture of.
I just went back and looked at the one bed picture and it "looks" like you put the drawer frame in when you built the bed or made it the base of the bed ????
Do you have a picture of just the bed frame ???
Leon wrote:

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The storage unit/ bed frame was assembled in the shop and carried as a one piece unit into the bedroom. I leveled the assembly with the 15 adjustable screw feet mounted into T-nuts. From there I attached the head and foot boards, screws throught the storage unit end panels into the posts of the head and foot boards. Then I topped the unit off with 2 3/4" thick paywood panels to support the mattress.

I posted the actual drawing in PDF on a.b.p.w. I do not have good pictures of the unit by itself but the drawings should give a good idea of how this all goes to gether. If you like I can e-mail you the Sketchup files and you can disect the drawing components.

Yes the drawer frame unit is the bed base. The bed frame/drawer unit assembly will stand on its own. The head board and foot board were later attached and have no purpose as far as stability or holding any members together. They are only for looks so to speak.

No actual decent detailed pictures except when I had it standing on end in the shop. See a.b.o.w od pdf files of the drawings. Or if you like I can send you the actual Sketchup files.
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Shoot me the sketchup file if you have time..
Thanks....it's a great idea.
Leon wrote:

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Done.
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