Thanks. I have no idea what diameter my lost roll is. I don't think I was aware of different widths when I bought it. It was whatever Maplin had on their shelves at the time.
The reason I asked about 0.7 and 1.2mm solder was I was looking to take advantage of the "webfree" offer and they were the two sizes listed by CPC. However, I have now seen tool station sell a 1.0mm size for even less, so I may go with that. I am curious to know; what are the three other sizes you use?
Thanks.
I think I may have misunderstood the comments on the web. I think everyone advocates using flux; the debate was whether this should be in the solder or separate but as AG has clarified, only use the separate flux if soldering something big, which I am not. Thanks.
of complaints in the industry about lead free.
I've read that lead-free doesn't look "right" so it's hard to tell if you have a good joint but perhaps you get used to this. Like you say, perhaps I should see for myself. I didn't realise you need separate irons, or at least bits though. Is that because the leaded solder contaminates the lead free?
I was interested to read on the web that the fumes are not solder vapour but the flux. If this is so, I'm not sure why the lead is a problem if you are not inhaling it. Some web sites suggest the flux in lead free is more harmful than that in the leaded version!
Is there an echo in here ;)
Or if it's something very small...separate flux can be useful, I hear, for some SM stuff.
I use 63/37 solder....!
doesnt work well either. I prefer too thick to too thin any day - its only really the tightest stuff where that becomes unworkable.
lot of complaints in the industry about lead free.
Solders are all specific metal mixes to achieve their basic properties. Mix 2 different solders in random proportions and who knows what properties you end up with.
Someone suggested swapping tips IIRC, I'd say that would soon lead to regrets.
Lead in landfill can contaminate ground water in theory, but its not been found a problem in practice. That's the nonissue outlawing lead is based on.
Rosin fumes are known to cause respiratory diseases, but its hard to avoid them.
NT
What sort of electronics are you dealing with? Soldering non surface mount stuff to a double sided PCB is till easier with the thin stuff - you don't have to 'fast feed' it. As I said, I hardly ever use 1.2mm at all - even although it is to hand.
Teach the kids how to solder so that they can mend their own toys.
Seriously, it's a worthwhile skill to pass on. OK - you might be expected to find the dis. wire/s, but the kids can fix 'em and get their toys working again.
Try to get them away from the idea that faulty goods should be fixed by somebody else, or replaced.
...or something very small - like surface mount.
Its very difficult to do drag solder techniques etc without additional flux.
Note that one will usually use flux _and_ a good electronics grade flux cored solder.
Everything from 1920s equipment to sm parts. Bulky joints such as flexes onto connectors are a pain with fine solder, its just impractical to feed fast and far enough with one hand.
NT
Depends on what you do I guess... I find 1.2mm a bit heavy for most circuit board work
What I have found is that any of them solder ok, but the flux fumes from some are far more unpleasant than from others.
Sure, but I was talking electronics work here...
(although even then there is a place for 125W irons in desoldering work)
Its more about flow with SM work - that and you tend to burn off the flux in the wire by soldering the "wrong" way; i.e. by applying the solder to the bit and not to the preheated joint.
So the flux in the wire serves to keep the bit wetted and clean, and the flux on the board lets the solder flow without bridging pins etc.
En el artículo , Fred escribió:
This stuff. I've been using it for years.
That's for a 500g reel, there may be a 250g equivalent but I can't spot it.
It's 0.7mm, with a non-corrosive rosin flux core, which you want for electronics, and it's made by Ersin (top quality).
For electronics (as per your subject) 0.7mm. As others have said, if you need to do a bigger joint you just feed more in.
Leaded all the way. Lead-free's a pain in the arse to keep the tree- huggers happy but has done bugger all for the environment, and is inferior to leaded. It's just resulted in more electronics equipment with bad solder joints going into landfill (because of the replace rather then repair culture), the exact opposite effect to what the greenies intended.
You do need flux. Flux cored solders are easiest, and the one I suggest above is non-corrosive, so you needn't clean it off afterwards.
So am I. Extra flux is needed wherever an iron is being pushed somewhat, an d the joint is consequently slow to do. The OP will probably be buying a 25 w non-thermostatic type iron, so will encounter such joints from time to ti me. The OP won't have a modern thermostatic iron.
NT
They're really cunning - doesn't matter where you position your face, they always drift straight into it.
There are various fume extraction systems, but you don't want a breeze blowing across your soldering work, particularly if you don't have a temperature controlled iron.
I'd agree if you're repairing old stuff where the components are on tag strips - or doing largish flex - is ok with larger stuff - but that surely is a small part of contruction or repair these days?
For modern stuff, mostly. There are still jobs for the bigger solder & irons though.
NT
The OP has an Antex 25W iron; how did you know ;)
If I wanted to upgrade my iron, what would you recommend?
TIA
75W temp controlled.
There are dozens of reasonable ones around. If you really want a pro piece of kit get a weller off ebay. A used weller is better than most new irons and you will be able to get spare tips
Most of us start with a basic 25 watter.
Well.... what are the shortcomings you're experiencing? Probably the most popular upgrade now is to a thermostatic iron, generally 50-75w. There are also big old Solons for large joints, desoldering etc, they're effective and very cheap.
Things I'd skip are solder guns and cold soldering irons. The former are little use in practice, the latter has a habit of frying components as it applies voltage to the joint.
NT
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